转筒运动方式对羊毛织物起毛起球性能的影响  

Effect of rotating-drying model on the pilling of wool fabric drying

作　　者：韦玉辉[1] 宁琳[1] 吴锦川 丁雪梅[1] WEI Yuhui NING Lin WUJlnchuan DING Xuemei(Fashion and Design College, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051 , China Jiangsu Bioperfectus Technologies Company, Ltd, Taizhou, Jiangsu 225300, China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]江苏硕世生物科技有限公司,江苏泰州225300

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2017年第7期26-30,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：博士生创新基金项目(CUSF-DH-D-2016067);东华大学非线性研究所项目(15D110926)

摘　　要：针对100%羊毛针织物易起毛起球的现象,借助起毛起球评级箱、扫描电镜(SEM)、XRD衍射仪,研究静止悬挂烘干、正反交替旋转烘干及单方向旋转对起毛起球、羊毛纤维形态、XRD等性能的影响。结果表明:运动方向对毛织物的起毛起球、微观形态及弯曲刚度有较大影响;其中,单方向旋转烘干损伤最大:羊毛纤维表面鳞片被部分剥离、破坏,鳞片厚度降低,纤维表面可见皱缩状沟槽,其纱线表面毛羽较多;综合考虑烘干能耗及烘干时间,认为正反交替旋转烘干是最适合100%羊毛织物的烘干运动方式。此外,不同运动方式只会对织物起毛起球性能及纤维微观造成损伤,不会对羊毛纤维化学成分及分子结构造成损伤。为干衣机程序开发和羊毛织物日常护理提供参考。In view of the pilling tendency of 100% knitted wool fabrics,the effect of hang-drying model,clockwise direction rotating-drying model and alternating clockwise and counterclockwise rotatingdrying model on pilling,fiber microscopy and XRD were investigated by pilling tester,scanning electron microscopy（SEM） and X-ray Diffraction（XRD）. The results showed that pilling and morphology of wool fiber were significantly affected by the direction of rotating; the drying maximum damage was obtained under clockwise direction rotating condition： the surface scales of wool fibers were partially cleaved,thickness of scale reduced,some grooves generated on the surface,and yarn hairiness increased.Combined with the drying energy consumption and drying time, alternating clockwise and counterclockwise rotating-drying model was optimal for 100% wool fabric. In addition,different rotatingdrying models only damage in pilling and microstructure of fiber instead of damage in the wool fiber chemical composition and molecular structure. It provided a reference for dryer development and daily care for wool fabric.

关 键 词：干磨损 烘干 羊毛织物 起毛起球 断裂 扭曲 

分 类 号：TS131.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]