18.2 tex大麻棉混纺假捻集聚赛络纺工艺与质量差异性研究  

Comparative study of the quality and process of 18.2 tex hemp/cotton false twist-texturized yarn with compact siro-spinning

作　　者：丁文胜[1] 张瑞云[1] 程隆棣[1] 方斌 俞建勇[4] 路明娜 

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,上海201620 [2]绍兴华通色纺有限公司,浙江绍兴312073 [3]绍兴吉玛良斯服饰设计有限公司,浙江绍兴312073 [4]东华大学研究院,上海200051

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2017年第7期23-25,29,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：集聚赛络纺纱线捻度偏高,所纺针织物易出现纬斜问题,而假捻集聚赛络纺纱线捻度低,能起到改善针织物纬斜的作用。在棉/大麻低损耗工艺所纺70/30棉/麻粗纱基础上,对细纱机进行设备改进,通过采用三罗拉牵伸和加装假捻装置,对比分析18.2 tex假捻集聚赛络纺纱线性能指标,包括条干、粗节、细节和棉结之间的显著性差异,以及毛羽指数、对折扭结数、强力等指标。试验结果证明,假捻集聚赛络纺细纱品质指标更好。通过扫描电子显微镜观察纱线表面形貌发现,假捻集聚赛络纺比集聚赛络纺纱线蓬松、毛羽少、表面光滑、捻度低、细纱品质更优。Due to high twist of compact siro blended yarn, its knitted fabric has serious skewing weft problem. False twist-texturized compact siro blended yarn with low twist, which can improve the skewing weft of knitted fabric. On the basis of 70/30 cotton/hemp spun with low loss process, some equipment improvements are made on spinning frame with three-roller drawing and installation of false twisting device. The significant differences among spun yarns of 18.2 rex false twist-texturized compact siro blended yarn are compared and analyzed, including the significant differences among stripes, thick sections, details and neps, as well as the indexes of hairiness, fold-kink number and strength. The experimental results show that the false twist-texturized compact siro blended yarns have better quality. Besides, through observing the surface of the yarn with a scanning electron microscope, the results show that false twist-texturized compact siro blended yarn features fluffy, less hairiness, smooth, low twist and better quality.

关 键 词：集聚赛络纺 混纺纱 纺纱工艺 质量指标 

分 类 号：TS104.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]