竹编工艺在面料设计中的创新应用与表现  

Innovative application and representation of bamboo-weaving craft in fabric design

作　　者：罗露芸 沈叶[3] 张毅[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非遗文化基地,江苏无锡214122 [3]上海工艺美术职业学院时尚与工艺学院,上海201808

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第7期61-67,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学重点项目(15AG004)

摘　　要：通过了解竹编工艺特性及其技法表现,阐述竹编技法的主要分类并绘制编织技法图,分析竹编技法在现有面料设计中的案例并借鉴其表现手法进行创新设计。使用竹编拓印技法和竹编影射图案技法将竹编工艺元素应用于面料印花设计中,以竹编工艺中"自由编""弹花编"和"挑压编"技法为灵感来源进行面料编织设计。采用五种不同类型的设计元素实践应用于面料创新,总结竹编工艺在面料设计中的设计原则和应用规律,不仅为面料创新设计提供更新的创作素材、提升面料附加值,也是另一种传承传统手工艺的方式。This paper is intended to introduce the main bamboo-weaving techniques with illustrations,analyzing the cases of application of bamboo-weaving techniques in fabric design,and make innovative design by referring to bamboo-weaving techniques by studying the characteristics and technical representation of bamboo weaving. For this purpose,rubbing and mapping skills of bamboo-weaving were applied in printing pattern design of fabrics,fabric weaving design was carried out by referring to the ＂Free-weaving＂,＂Tan Hua weaving＂and ＂Tiao Ya weaving＂techniques of bamboo-weaving,five different design elements were applied for fabric innovation,and the principle and rules for applying bamboo-weaving techniques in fabric design were summarized. This provides new ideas for innovative fabric design,improves the added value of fabrics,and also is good for inheriting traditional arts and crafts.

关 键 词：竹编工艺 面料设计 竹编技法 编织 创新应用 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]