欧洲黑色服装流行的历史成因  

Historical origin of black apparel popularity in Europe

作　　者：张杞峰[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]北方工业大学建筑与艺术学院,北京100144 [2]清华大学美术学院,北京100084

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第7期84-89,共6页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：针对黑色服装在欧洲逐渐流行的主要历史成因展开研究,通过文献资料搜集法,从社会史、文化史与时尚史的角度,对黑色服装流行的重要历史节点进行了梳理和分析,得出黑色服装的流行作为欧洲服装史上一种独特的时尚现象,受到政治、经济、宗教、文化和生活方式等多方面深刻影响,其流行的历史成因复杂且耐人寻味,对研究当代流行现象具有现实指导意义。研究表明:黑色服装不仅具有宗教特色,亦是丧服的选择,工业革命之后,被赋予社交礼仪功能,成为资本主义社会务实精神和忧郁心理的表达。This study is made on the main historical origin of black apparel popularity in Europe by reviewing and analyzing the important history junctions of black apparel popularity from the aspects of social history,cultural history and fashion history with the literature collection method,and it is concluded that the black apparel popularity,as a unique fashion phenomenon is the history of costume of Europe,was deeply affected by politics,economy,religion,culture,the way of living and other aspects,and its historical origin is complicated and affords for thought,and is of realistic guiding significance to research on contemporary fashion popularity phenomenon. Researches show that black apparel was not only religious,but also was for mourning; became suitable for social etiquettes after the Industrial Revolution,becoming the expression vector of pragmatic spirit and depression in the capitalist society.

关 键 词：黑色服装 宗教 服丧礼仪 西班牙风 黑色燕尾服 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]