媒染剂质量浓度对毛织物石榴皮植物染料媒染工艺颜色特征值的影响  

Effect of mordant concentration on mordant dyeing process color feature value of pomegranate peel fabric

作　　者：赵志军[1] 徐菲[1] 李东[2] 高彩云[2] 刘剑虹[1] ZHAO Zhijun XU Fei LI Dong GAO Caiyun LIU Jianhong(Qiqihar University, Qiqihar, Heilongjiang 161006, China Beifang University of Nationalities, Yinchuan, Ningxia 750021, China)

机构地区：[1]齐齐哈尔大学,黑龙江齐齐哈尔161006 [2]北方民族大学,宁夏银川750021

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2017年第8期27-31,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：黑龙江省教育科学"十三五"规划2016年度重点课题(GJB1316109);黑龙江省哲学社会科学研究规划项目(16YSE16);黑龙江省教育厅基本业务专项人文面上项目(135109544)

摘　　要：为研究媒染剂质量浓度在媒染工艺中的作用,明确不同媒染剂质量浓度对颜色特征值的影响。使用白矾为媒染剂,采用水煎法萃取石榴皮色素,对毛织物进行媒染工艺,确定了不同媒染剂质量浓度条件下的显色规律及色彩L~﹡、a~﹡、b~﹡、c~﹡值的范围。试验结果表明:不同媒染剂质量浓度对毛织物媒染工艺影响较大。毛织物石榴皮染色时,前、同媒染最佳媒染剂质量浓度为10 g/L,后媒染工艺为20 g/L。毛织物石榴皮媒染工艺的色域宽度依次为前媒染、后媒染、同媒染。在不同媒染剂质量浓度条件下,主要呈灰黄色调、黄绿色调和灰绿色调。调整媒染剂质量浓度能够小幅度改变色相,同时派生出很多临近色彩,进一步丰富了中国传统服饰色谱。In order to study the effect of mordant concentration in mordant dyeing process, the effect of different concentration of mordant color eigenvalues was determined. The use of alum were as mordant, using water decoction extraction of pomegranate peel pigment on wool fabric were determined mordant dyeing process, the color rule with different mordant concentration conditions and value range of color L＊ , a＊ , b＊ , c＊ The results show that different mordant concentrations make great effect on wool fabric mordant dyeing. The best concentration of mordant for pre-mordanting dyeing and one-bath dyeing of pomegranate peel wool fabric are 10 g/L, and after-mordanting dyeing is 20 g/L. The color width of pomegranate peel wool fabric in proper order is pre-mordanting dyeing, after-mordanting dyeing and one-bath dyeing. Under the different mordant concentrations, it mainly in grayish yellow hue, yellow green hue and grayish green hue. By adjusting the concentration of mordant could make small margin to change the hue, and other colors derived from the enriched Chinese traditional clothing chromatography.

关 键 词：毛织物 染色工艺 植物染色 石榴皮 色谱 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]