真丝织物天然染料微波染色  

Microwave dyeing of silk fabric with natural dyes

作　　者：陈秀芳[1] 郝文洁 王晓 

机构地区：[1]安徽职业技术学院纺织服装系,合肥230011 [2]绍兴出入境检验检疫局,浙江绍兴312000

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第9期7-13,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：安徽高校自然科学研究项目(KJ2016A385)

摘　　要：利用微波加热对真丝织物进行天然染料(高粱红、茶多酚、栀子黄和栀子蓝)染色。设计了三因素、四水平正交试验表,并以明矾为媒染剂,对真丝织物进行同浴媒染试验后测定织物的得色量,通过方差分析比较微波加热时间、染液p H值及媒染剂质量分数的显著性大小,结合染料的分子结构分析同浴媒染法中不同染料对织物的得色量影响显著性大小不同的原因。以明矾为媒染剂对真丝织物进行后媒染色,同样结合染料的分子结构探讨织物的得色量和颜色特征值的变化规律及织物的摩擦色牢度和皂洗色牢度。比较同浴媒染和后媒染后织物的匀染性,后者好于前者。In this paper,silk fabric was dyed with natural dyes( including sorghum red,tea polyphenols,gardenia yellow and gardenia blue) by aid of microwave heating. Then,an orthogonal test table of three factors and four levels was designed,potassium alum was adopted as a mordant,metachrome dying experiment was conducted on silk fabric for measuring the color yield of fabrics,variance analysis and comparison were made on microwave heating time,pH of dyeing bath and amount of mordent,and the reasons for influence of different significances of different dyes on the color yield of fabrics with metachrome dying method were analyzed from the perspective of molecular structure of dye.Besides,afterchrome dying of silk fabric was carried out with potassium alum as mordent,and discussions were made on the change rule of color yield and color eigenvalue of fabrics and rubbing fastness and washing color fastness of fabrics from the perspective of molecular structure of dye. Comparison shows that the leveling property of afterchrome dyed fabrics is superior to that of metachrome dyed fabrics.

关 键 词：微波染色 真丝织物 天然染料 同浴媒染法 后媒染法 正交设计 

分 类 号：TS193.59[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]