不同的省量设置对标准体旗袍造型的影响  

Influence of dart value setting on standard size modeling of cheongsam

作　　者：宋莹[1] 王宝环[1] 

机构地区：[1]辽东学院服装与纺织学院,辽宁丹东118003

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第9期25-30,共6页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：旗袍作为丝绸服装的代表款式,造型上追求线条流畅贴体,而旗袍的结构设计中省量的设置,直接决定了旗袍造型的美观度及贴体度。文章首先对标准体型165/84A的同一规格尺寸的旗袍进行3种不同方案的省量设置,并分别进行结构制图和成衣缝制。通过三维扫描仪对3种省量设置方案的旗袍成衣造型进行分析研究,最终显示不同的分配方案会对旗袍造型贴体度产生不同影响,在此基础上,进一步选取2种不同号型标准体型,进行同样的实验并进行验证,最终得出较合理的省道设置方案,而标准体型的省道设置结果不受人体高度的影响。Cheongsam,as a classical style of silk garment,requires smooth and slim line,and the setting of dart value in structural design directly determines appearance and matching degree of the cheongsam. In this study,three settings of dart value of cheongsam of the same specification for standard size of 165/84 A were made,structural drafting and garment sewing were carried out respectively. Analysis and research were made on the ready-made cheongsams of three different dart values with 3D scanner,which shows that different dart values lead to different matching degrees. On this basis,the same experiment was carried out with cheongsams of another 2 standard sizes,a rational dart value setting scheme was obtained finally,and it was concluded that the dart value setting of standard size is free from the influence of height.

关 键 词：旗袍 省道 距离松量 三维扫描 造型 省量 

分 类 号：TS941.717.87[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]