《齐东野语》中的纺织考辨  

Study and comparison of textile technology in the Qi Dong Ye Yu

作　　者：李强[1] 李斌[2] 曹孟莎 

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学<服饰导刊>编辑部,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第9期80-86,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(15YJCZH085)

摘　　要：《齐东野语》蕴含着丰富的纺织信息,经常作为一些纺织技术史文献的佐证,甚至其中有些论述具有首创性,却没有得到学界的系统关注,十分可惜。通过对《齐东野语》中论及纺织的相关信息进行系统深入的考证,研究发现:两宋时期蜀地灯笼锦逐渐成为宫廷贵族享用的奢侈品,曾盛极一时;《齐东野语》中"作文自出机杼难"之"杼"应该指筘较宜,而非传统观点所认为的梭子或梭子与筘的混合;《齐东野语》"绍兴御府书画式"中的书画装潢部件中的织物类型和品种可为鉴赏古代书画作品真伪的依据,且南宋书画装潢各部件较前、后代其所指不同,需要认真区分;《齐东野语》中关于"轻容、方空"的记载成为研究古代这两种织物较详细的文献,不可忽视;关于绢纸的述说极具训诂价值,为提示纸与纺织之间联系提供了语言依据;《齐东野语》对于火浣布即石棉的研究成为不刊之论;《齐东野语·淳绍岁币》对两宋岁币的记载成为古今岁币(或贡币、赐币)换和平此种言论的有力驳证。The Qi Dong Ye Yu contains abundant information on textile technology,so that it is usually referred to as a literature of textile technology. Some discussions and analyses in it are even initiative,but have not attracted due attention. This is a pity. This paper is intended to systematically and deeply verify related information on textile technology contained in the Qi Dong Ye Yu. Researches show that lantern brocade of Sichuan had become luxury accessible and affordable to imperial noble during the Two Song dynasties,which was popular for a period; the character of 'Zhu'( 杼) referred to in the Qi Dong Ye Yu should be interpreted as reed rather than shuttle or the either reed or shuttle in traditional viewpoint; the fabric types and varieties of decorations in the Forms and Styles in Mounting Paintings and Calligraphies in Shaoxing Imperial Court in the Qi Dong Ye Yu can be taken as the criteria for discerning the false ancient paintings and calligraphies from the genuine,and the decoration structures of the paintings and calligraphies in the Southern Song dynasty are different from that in other dynasties,which should be discriminated carefully; the records on 'Qingrong and Fangkong ' in the Qi Dong Ye Yu have become detailed reference for the two types of fabrics,which should not be ignored; the contents on silk paper are of high critical interpretation value,providing a linguistic basis for study on link between paper and spinning; the research on huohuanbu( asbestos) in the Qi Dong Ye Yu has become an unalterable statement; the records about tributes offered by the court in the Two Song dynasties in the Qi Dong Ye Yu have become an assertive rebuttal evidence for the view of exchanging peace with tributes.

关 键 词：齐东野语 灯笼锦 机杼 绍兴御府书画式 火浣布 南宋岁币 

分 类 号：TS145.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] K876.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]