粘胶牛津纺的设计与生产要点  

Design and Production Key Point of Viscose Oxford Fabric

作　　者：杨洁[1] 

机构地区：[1]海南大学,海南海口570228

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2017年第9期66-68,共3页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：总结粘胶牛津纺的设计与生产要点。以集聚纺R 14.8tex单纱为经纱,集聚纺R 14.8tex×2股线为纬纱。降低络筒速度至750m/min,并减少络筒张力,以保证筒纱质量;整经速度控制在450 m/min,减少整经断头;浆纱工序以淀粉类浆料为主,保证浆纱成膜和弹性,并对浆纱进行后上蜡处理;织造采用K88型剑杆织机,进剑时间63°。通过采取一系列技术措施,保证了织物顺利生产,坯布生产效率达90%,下机一等品率达85%,成品入库一等品率达98%。认为:重点需关注浆纱工序和织造工序,控制毛羽,减少断头,才能保证面料的品质以及外观效果。Production key points of viscose oxford fabric were summarized. Condensed spinning viscose 14. 8 rex yarn was selected as warp, condensed spinning viscose 14.8 tex× 2 yarn was selected as weft. Winding speed was decreased to 750 m/min. In order to ensure the cheese quality, winding tension was reduced. In order to reduce warping broken ends, warping tension was controlled to be 450 m/rain. Sized film and resilience were ensured with starch as the primary size mixture in sizing process. Waxing was adopted in sizing process. K88 ra- pier loom was adopted in weaving process and weft insertion time was 63°. Smooth production of fabric was en- sured, the production efficiency of gray goods can be reached to 90%, first grade percentage before cloth repai- ring can be reached to 85% and first grade percentage put in storage can be reached to 98% by adoption of a series of technology measures. It is considered that sizing process and weaving process should be focus on. The quality and appearance effect of fabric can be ensured by controlling hairiness and reducing breakage.

关 键 词：粘胶 集聚纱 断裂强力 络筒速度 整经张力 浆料配方 剑杆织机 后整理 

分 类 号：TS105[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]