高支高密天丝色织府绸的设计与生产  

Design and production of high-count and high-density Tencel yarn dyed poplin

作　　者：孟君[1] MENG Jun(Sichuan University of Arts and Science, Dazhou 635000, Chin)

机构地区：[1]四川文理学院,四川达州635000

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2017年第10期38-39,57,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：高支高密天丝色织府绸是一种高档衬衫面料,其生产有一定难度,为此对生产过程中的关键工序采取了相应的工艺技术措施。漂染工序采用高温高压的筒染工艺,络筒工序采用电子清纱与空气捻接,以减少强力损失与毛羽产生。整经、浆纱工序采用分色分层排花法进行分批整经,采用无PVA浆料配方进行上浆并合理设计上浆工艺参数,以保证片纱张力均匀,并可提高浆纱强力。设计了剑杆织造的开口、引纬、后梁等工艺参数,确保织造顺利进行。后整理工序针对天丝纤维特点采用了生物酶抛光、液氨整理等工艺。生产实践结果显示,设计生产的产品品质达到预期目标。The high-count and high-density Tencel yarn dyed poplin is a kind of high-grade shirt fabric with a bit difficulty in its production. Therefore, the corresponding technical measures are taken for the key process in the production process. Bleaching and dyeing with hightemperature and highpressure bobbin dyeing process and winding with electronic yarn cleaner and air splicer are taken to reduce the loss of strength and hairiness. Color separation and layering beamwarping are taken in warping process, and non-PVA sizing with reasonable sizing formula is taken in sizing process to ensure the uniform yarn tension and improve the sizing strength of PVA. The process parameters of rapier weaving, weft insertion, opening the rational allocation of the process are designed to ensure the smooth progress of weaving. The clockwise enzyme polishing process and liquid ammonia finishing process are used based on the characteristics of Tencel fiber. The practical production shows that the quality of designed product achieves the expected goal.

关 键 词：色织物 天丝 府绸 织前准备 织造工艺 整理 

分 类 号：TS106.84[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]