桑蚕丝无缝针织物的外观性能  

Appearance and performance of mulberry silk seamless knitted fabric

作　　者：杨乐 金子敏[1] 陶建伟 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江棒杰数码针织品股份有限公司,浙江义乌322009

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第8期20-25,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省重大科技专项和成果转化工程项目(2013T103)

摘　　要：结合无缝针织工艺,研究面纱规格、里纱原料、组织结构三个因素对桑蚕丝无缝针织物外观性能的影响。结果表明:当面纱为同一规格的桑蚕丝、组织结构为1+2假罗纹、里纱为牵伸倍数2.8的锦纶包覆丝时,无缝针织物的弹性性能相对较好;当面纱为同一规格的桑蚕丝、组织结构为纬平针、里纱为牵伸倍数2.4的锦纶包覆丝时,无缝针织物的悬垂性能相对较好;当面纱为2×23.3 dtex桑蚕丝、组织结构为纬平针、里纱为牵伸倍数2.8的锦纶包覆丝时,无缝针织物折皱回复性能相对较好;当面纱为3×23.3 dtex桑蚕丝、组织结构为纬平针、里纱为牵伸倍数2.4的锦纶包覆丝时,无缝针织物折皱回复性能相对较好。The effect of specifications of veil,materials of lining and weave structures on the appearance and performance of mulberry silk seamless knitted fabric was studied in combination with the seamless knitting technology. The results show that the elastic property of seamless knitted fabric of a weave structure of 1 + 2 false rib and with mulberry silk of the same specification as veil and chinlon covered yearn of a draft ratio of 2. 8 as lining is relatively good; the draping of seamless knitted fabric of weft plain weave and with mulberry silk of the same specification as veil and chinlon covered yearn of a draft ratio of 2. 4 as lining is relatively good; the wrinkle recovery ability of seamless knitted fabric of weft plain weave and with 2 × 23. 3 dtex mulberry silk as veil and chinlon covered yearn of a draft ratio of 2. 8 as lining is relatively good; the wrinkle recovery ability of seamless knitted fabric of weft plain weave and with 2 × 23. 3 dtex mulberry silk as veil and chinlon covered yearn of a draft ratio of 2. 4 as lining is relatively good.

关 键 词：面纱 里纱 组织结构 桑蚕丝无缝针织物 外观性能 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]