仿“缂丝”效果的提花织物工艺设计  

Process design of “Kesi”-imitated jacquard fabric

作　　者：杨凌江 鲁建平 张红霞[1] 祝成炎[1] 徐娟 胡贻 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学"纺织纤维材料与加工技术"国家地方联合工程实验室,杭州310018 [2]海宁市天一纺织有限公司,浙江海宁314409

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第8期51-55,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家国际合作项目(2011DFB51570)

摘　　要：缂丝是采用平素织机手工缂织的丝织工艺品,其织物具有正反面纹理效果相同的特征。为了将传统缂丝效应应用到现代提花织物上,实现具有缂丝效应的提花织物产品的织造。文章在分析传统缂丝结构设计原理的基础上,保留缂丝织物正反面纹样相同和其组织均为平纹组织这两大特征,提出了一种基于表里换层双层组织结构的仿"缂丝"效果提花织物的织造原理,并将其应用于实际的面料开发中。基于表里换层双层组织结构的仿"缂丝"提花工艺可以在织物的表面纹理上实现和传统缂丝织物纹理相似的效果。实践证明,通过电子提花技术成功地设计开发了一种具有缂丝图案、组织和层次特点的仿"缂丝"效果的提花织物。Kesi is handmade silk woven article with plain weaving machine,which is featured by that the textures on both front and back faces are the same. To make modern jacquard fabric of traditional Kesi effect,the principle of weaving 'Kesi'-imitated jacquard fabric of surface inner layer exchange weave structure was proposed in this paper based on analysis of design principle of traditional Kesi structure and consideration of the two features that the textures on both front and back sides are the same and both faces are of plain weave,and the weaving principle has been applied in fabric development. With the process of making 'Kesi'-imitated jacquard fabric of surface inner layer exchange weave structure,the texture similar that of traditional Kesi fabric can be achieved. Practice has proved that a 'Kesi'-imitated jacquard fabric has been successfully designed and developed with electronic jacquard technology,which has the patterns,weave structure and layer characteristics similar to that of Kesi.

关 键 词：缂丝 双层组织 表里换层 平纹组织 电子提花 

分 类 号：TS105.14[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]