传统蜀锦以画入匹方法在面料设计中的探索  

Exploration of the method of applying painting into fabric of traditional Sichuan brocade in fabric design

作　　者：林莎莎 乔洪 胡光俊 

机构地区：[1]四川师范大学服装与设计艺术学院,成都610100 [2]四川师范大学蜀锦蜀绣实验室,成都610100

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第8期62-69,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(16BG112);四川省教育厅人文社科一般项目(16SB0056)

摘　　要：在新丝绸之路的时代背景下,蜀锦产品的类型需求日趋多样化。文章以宽幅的二方连续蜀锦面料为研究对象,探讨蜀锦织画技艺融入蜀锦织匹方式的可行性。通过分析两大传统蜀锦品类的技术背景,构思以题材和布局为切入点的设计路线,采用实践验证的研究方式探索设色技巧,组织设计与质感的关系,实现了蜀锦面料《山石百合》的工艺探索。最后从织物应用角度提出针对产品消费需求进行织物设计定位,利用材质组合体现质感优势,根据纸样排版检验布局合理性等观点,为蜀锦面料品种设计做出进一步尝试。Under the background of the new Silk Roads,more and more diversified types of Sichuan brocade products become in demand. This paper is intended to discuss the feasibility of integrating patterning skills of Sichuan brocade into Sichuan brocade weaving based on study of a wide two-dimension series Sichuan brocade fabric. The technology of 'Lily on the Rocks'( Sichuan brocade) was explored through analyzing the technical background of the two major traditional Sichuan brocade categories,conceiving a design idea focusing on theme and layout,studying the coloring skills by means of practical verification,and organizing the correlation of design and texture. Lastly,a series of suggestions were proposed,including positioning fabric design specific to consumer demand from the perspective of application of fabric,reflecting the texture superiority via texture composition,and checking the layout rationality according to pattern layout,which is a further try of design to increase Sichuan brocade category.

关 键 词：蜀锦 以画入匹 宽幅二方连续 面料设计 设色技巧 《山石百合》 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J523.1[艺术—艺术设计]