饰纱的线密度及捻系数对云纹纱成纱影响  

Effect of density and twist factor of decorative yarns on appearance and yarn quality of cloud yarn

作　　者：高娜[1] 李强[1,2] 徐伯俊 刘新金[1,3] 王广斌 

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司,江苏南通226000 [3]江苏苏丝丝绸股份有限公司,江苏宿迁223700 [4]新疆天山毛纺织股份有限公司,乌鲁木齐830054

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第11期13-18,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中国博士后科学基金项目(2015M581722);江苏省博士后科研资助计划项目(1501146B);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20151359);江苏省产学研项目(BY2015019-10;BY2016022-27);江苏省科技成果转化项目(BA2014080);纺织服装产业河南省协同创新项目(hnfx14002);广东省产学研项目(2013B090600038);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心基金项目(XJFZ/2016/4)

摘　　要：探讨了饰纱线密度及捻系数对云纹纱成纱外观及质量的影响。在DTM129空心罗拉紧密纺细纱机上纺制7.3 tex的云纹纱,通过改变所用饰纱的线密度及捻系数,即采用5.8~29.2 tex、捻系数为280~440的饰纱,纺制成不同色彩分布的云纹纱。利用MDA1300视频显微镜观察成纱外观,并对其强伸性能、条干、毛羽指标进行测试和对比分析。研究结果表明:云纹纱在纵向上呈现有色纱包缠本色纱的包缠结构,其织物的图案呈现一种云纹彩霞的效果。为保证良好的花式效果及质量,纺制云纹纱时,应选择7.3~9.7 tex、较相应线密度针织用纱正常捻系数低的饰纱。The effects of yarn density and twist factor of decorative yarns on the appearance and yarn quality of cloud yarn were discussed. 7. 3 tex cloud yarns were spun on DTM129 hollow roller compact spinning frame. Through changing yarn density and twist factor of decorative yarns（ i.e. 5.8-29.2 tex,twist factor of 280-440）,cloud yarns with different color distribution were spun. MDA1300 video microscope was used to observe the appearance of cloud yarn. Meanwhile,the tensile property,evenness and hairiness of yarns were tested and analyzed comparatively. The results show that cloud yarn presents a wrapped structure in the longitudinal direction and its fabric presents the moire effect of rosy clouds. In order to guarantee better fancy effect and quality,we should choose decorative yarns of 7.3-9.7 tex and a lower twist factor.

关 键 词：云纹纱 外观 断裂强力 毛羽 条干不匀率 

分 类 号：TS104.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]