环锭纱、转杯纱和喷气纱对针织物手感的影响  

Impact on knitted fabric hand made of ring,rotor and air-jet yarn

作　　者：N.T.Patil S.P.Borkar S.Weidner-Bohnenberger M.Schnell 

机构地区：[1]VeermataJijabai技术研究所(VJTI)(印度) [2]立达机械公司(瑞士)

出　　处：《国际纺织导报》2017年第9期8-12,21,共6页Melliand China

摘　　要：环锭纺、转杯纺和喷气纺技术目前已广泛用于纱线的商业化生产,每种纺纱技术都可赋予纱线特定的结构,这些纱线结构决定了纱线的特性,以及后续工序和下游纺织产品的性能。采用精梳环锭纱制成的织物无疑具有最佳的手感。为生产柔软的转杯纱,纱线的捻系数宜偏小设定,并在纺织品后整理阶段采取相应的措施。转杯纺纱在降低纱线捻系数方面具有较大潜力,其采用一种新型转杯及相应的配件生产低捻度纱线,是制备手感柔软的针织物的前提。目前喷气纺系统已由生产纯黏胶纱拓展至生产棉混纺纱,以及用于针织的纯棉精梳纱等新的应用领域,产品的柔软性可与普通环锭纱相媲美。对比评价了采用不同整理方法的转杯纺和喷气纺织物与环锭纺织物在不同产品阶段的织物手感风格。评价结果有助于发掘转杯纺和喷气纺的潜力以满足高速度和低转换成本的生产需求。Today ring, rotor and air-jet spinning systems are commercially used for yarn production. Each spinning technology creates a typical yarn structure. This yarn structure determines the characteristics of the yarn itself, the characteristics in downstream processing and finally of the subsequent textile product. Textile fabrics with the best hand can undoubtedly be produced from combed ring yarn. In order to manufacture a soft rotor yarn, the twist factor must be set low and supportive measures need to be undertaken in textile finishing. Rotor spinning has a great potential to reduce the twist factor, which is the basic prerequisite for the production of knitted fabric with a soft touch, by support of a new spin box generation and its components. The air-jet spinning system is now moving from 100% CV into new applications like CO blends and 200% CO combed for knitting. The challenge is to compete with the softness of a conventional ring yarn. The main objective of this study is to show the different ways to achieve comparative fabric hand of fabric made up of rotor yarn, air-jet yarn compared to fabric made up of ring yarn at different stages. This evaluation will support to exploit the potential of rotor and air-jet spinning in terms of its higher productivity, lower conversion costs at the same time.

关 键 词：针织物 手感 主观评价 客观评价 环锭纱 转杯纱 喷气纱 

分 类 号：TS104.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS186[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]