棉织物槐米后媒染工艺的颜色特征值对比研究  

The comparison research of characteristics color value for dyeing cotton fabrics using flos sophorae with after mordanting process

作　　者：徐菲[1] 赵志军[1] 李东[2] 高彩云[3] 刘剑虹[4] 

机构地区：[1]齐齐哈尔大学美术与艺术设计学院,黑龙江齐齐哈尔161006 [2]北方民族大学材料科学与工程学院,宁夏银川750021 [3]北方民族大学化学与工程学院,宁夏银川750021 [4]齐齐哈尔大学材料科学与工程学院,黑龙江齐齐哈尔161006

出　　处：《染整技术》2017年第11期27-29,33,共4页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：黑龙江省教育科学"十三五"规划2016年度重点课题(GJB1316109);黑龙江省哲学社会科学研究规划项目(16YSE16);黑龙江省教育厅基本业务专项人文面上项目(135109544)

摘　　要：为了复原中国传统服饰色彩中黄色系的染色工艺并证实植物染色色谱的应用价值,使用传统黄色植物染料——槐米为原料,采用水煮法萃取色素,对棉织物进行了后媒染工艺研究,将所得颜色特征值与化学染色工艺进行对比,确定了槐米后媒染工艺的显色规律及色彩L~*、a~*、b~*、c~*值的范围。结果表明:与化学染色相比,槐米后媒染工艺的颜色特征值复杂,具有独特的数据特征,同时,可通过调整染液质量分数在较大范围内接近化学染色。棉织物槐米后媒染工艺可染黄色系的大部分色彩,显色范围宽广,色相柔和。In order to recover the Chinese traditional costume colour medium yellow dyeing process and confirm the application value of plant chromatography, the traditional yellow plant dyestuff, sophora japonica was used as raw material, which was extracted by boiling water. The cotton fabric was dyed by post-mordant dyeing process. The color feature values and the chemical dyeing process were both compared, and therefore the law of coloration and the range of color L＊, a＊, b＊, c＊ values were determined. The results showed that compared with the chemical dyeing, the color feature values of sophora japonica post-mordant dyeing process was complex, which had the unique data features, and was close to chemical dyeing by adjusting the dyeing concentration in a large range. Most colors of the yellow system could be obtained by sophora japonica post-mordant dyeing process on cotton fabric. The color range was broad, the hue was soft.

关 键 词：传统 色彩 染色工艺 植物染色 槐米 黄色系 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]