用白胶和硬挺剂上浆处理对染色扎丽纱性能的影响(英文)  

Perform ance of White Gum and Warp Stiffener on the Quality of Dyed Silk Warp of Handloom Silk Saree

作　　者：Kadhar Mohammed Abdul Hariraj Gopal Rameshbabu Vijay Krishna Subash Venkappa Naik 

机构地区：[1]中央丝绸委员会蚕丝技术研究中心,印度班加罗尔市560068

出　　处：《蚕业科学》2017年第6期1055-1058,共4页ACTA SERICOLOGICA SINICA

摘　　要：印度泰米尔那德邦的扎丽纱手工生产中常采用上浆处理提高蚕丝纱线的可织性和降低断头率。白胶是常用的一种粘稠度高的上浆剂,而硬挺剂是新出现的一种天然胶,其粘稠度相对较低。分别测试分析利用白胶、硬挺剂上浆处理对已染色蚕丝纱线的质量、色泽、韧性和延展性的影响,结果显示:用白胶处理后紫罗兰色蚕丝纱线的质量增加率显著提高,色度L*值、a*值和b*值变化较大,色差值ΔE*>2,但蚕丝纱线的韧性、延展性未发生显著变化;而用硬挺剂处理,对紫罗兰色、黄色和紫色3种颜色蚕丝纱线的质量、色差值、韧性和延展性均无明显影响。依据试验结果,建议采用硬挺剂对染色蚕丝纱线进行上浆处理。The silk saree woven on handloom in Tamilnadu province of India invariably has gum that is applied on the dyed silk warp to improve individualization of around ten thousand silk ends threads used in the body portion of the silk saree. The white gum,a natural product with high viscosity and stickiness,is used since generations. Alternatively,warp stiffener which is also natural but less viscous and sticky is available in the market in recent times. Laboratory trials were taken by following the field practices for the application of both white gum and warp stiffener on dyed silk material（ violet）and add-on weight,colour values（ CIE L＊ a＊ b ＊）,the tenacity and elongation were assessed. It is found that white gum significantly increases the add-on percentage and alter the L＊ a＊ b＊ values of the colour used when compared to warp stiffener. The colour difference ΔE＊ is also more than 2 which implies that the colour has significantly changed after the application of white gum on the dyed（ violet） silk warp. There is no significant difference in tenacity and elongation properties of the dyed（ violet） silk warp in both cases. Further investigation revealed that the quality characteristics of dyed silk warp（ yellow purple） didn＇t exhibit any quality deterioration after the application of warp stiffener. Based on these data,the application of warp stiffener doesn＇t hamper the inherent quality of the dyed silk warp hence recommended.

关 键 词：蚕丝纱线 上浆 白胶 硬挺剂 质量增加率 色度 韧性 延展性 

分 类 号：TS105.213[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]