PBT和PET交织经编织物的染整工艺对织物弹性的影响  

The Effect of Dyeing & Finishing Process on the Elasticity for PBT/PET Warp Knitted Fabrics

作　　者：陈晴[1,2] 冒海文 马丕波 缪旭红[1,2] 蒋高明 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院 [2]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心

出　　处：《纺织导报》2018年第1期55-58,共4页China Textile Leader

基　　金：国家自然科学基金青年基金项目(51403080);江苏省自然科学基金青年基金项目(BK20140161)

摘　　要：为了使用PBT长丝开发弹性经编针织物,除了要研究经编织造参数工艺对PBT和PET交织经编针织物的影响之外,染色、后整理工艺条件也是影响织物最终弹性的重要因素。为了使PBT和PET交织经编织物具有最优的弹性伸长和弹性伸长回复率,本文研究了染色温度、热定形温度和时间对织物弹性的影响。研究结果表明,最优的染色、定形工艺条件为染色温度130℃,定形温度145℃,定形时间40 s。在此条件下,处理后织物的横向定负荷伸长为131.66 mm,纵向为105.09 mm,横向定伸长回复率为83.39%,纵向定伸长回复率为79.35%。This study investigated the elastic elongation and elastic recovery of the elastic warp knitted fabric made of polyethylene terephthalate（PET） and polybutylene terephthalate（PBT） flament. The efect of knitting parameter on the elasticity of PBT/PET warp knitted fabric was analyzed in part I. In this paper, the infuence of dyeing and heat setting on elasticity was further exploited. It was noted that the elastic elongation is increased after dyeing process due to further fabric shrinkage during this heat and moisture treatment. But, heat setting process had an adverse efect on the elastic elongation. The optimum fnishing condition was extracted that dyeing temperature was 130 ℃ for 30 min, and heat setting at 145 ℃ for 40 s without stretch. The fnal fabric had 131.66 mm elongation at weft direction, and 105.09 mm at warp direction under 100 N tensions. The recovery is 83.39% at weft direction and 79.35% at warp direction at 30% extension for 5 cycles stretch. There are 3.5 N at 30% extension at weft direction, and 8 N at warp direction.

关 键 词：PBT 经编针织物 染色 热定形 织物弹性 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]