胸部形态对文胸塑形效果的影响  

Effect of breast shape on shaping figure

作　　者：鲁虹[1,2] 苗苗[1] 于晓坤[1,2] 张欢[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2018年第1期42-46,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助(17D110712)

摘　　要：针对不同胸型穿着不同文胸具而产生不同塑形效果的问题,选取圆盘形胸部形态志愿者3名、圆球形胸部形态志愿者4名、纺锤型胸部形态志愿者1名,分别穿着选取的10款样本文胸,通过三维人体扫描仪测试BP间距变化(胸部两最高点间距)和FNP(前颈点)到BL(胸围线)的垂直距离变化,分析文胸的聚拢效果和上托效果。结果显示:圆盘型胸部形态女性选择中厚罩杯或超厚罩杯、低胸型钢圈、U型后比的文胸,塑形效果较好;圆球形胸部形态女性选择具有中厚罩杯或超厚罩杯、连鸡心钢圈或者普通型钢圈、普通后比的文胸塑形效果较好;纺锤形胸部形态女性选择中厚罩杯或厚罩杯、连鸡心钢圈、U型普通后比或一字型低后比的文胸,胸部塑形效果较好。Different breast shapes in different bra has different shaping effect. Selecting 3 volunteers with disc breast shape,4 volunteers with spherical breast shape, and 1 volunteer with spindle breast, worn the 10 sample bra. Through 3D body scanning instrument scan distance＇s change of BP （the difference value of BP in wearing a bra and non） and FNP BL （ the difference value of vertical distance between the front neck point and the bust line in wearing and not wearing a bra and non）,then analyze effect of shaping figures. The results showed that women with disc breast shape might choose bra whose factors of structure are thick or super thick cup,low front panel and back wing of U shape; women with spherical breast might choose bra that are in middle thick or super thick cup,front panel linked the front middle point or ordinary front panel and common back wing; and women with spindle breast might wear bra that are in middle thick or thick cup,front panel linked the front middle point,back wing in U shape or straight line shape. Therefore, enterprises should take consider of the structure characteristics of underwear bra and the characteristics of consumer＇s breasts, which will make better in shaping effectof bra.

关 键 词：胸部形态 文胸 聚拢效果 上托效果 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]