罗布麻针织用纱设计与开发  

Design and development of apocynum knitting yarn

作　　者：李娟 刘新金 谢春萍[1] 贺文慧[1] 刘璐 

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室.江苏无锡214122 [2]江苏苏丝丝绸股份有限公司,江苏宿迁223700

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2018年第1期15-18,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：江苏省博士后科研资助计划项目(1501146B);中国博士后科学基金项目(2015M581722);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20151359);江苏省产学研项目(BY2015019-10;BY2016022-27);江苏省科技成果转化项目(BA2014080);纺织服装产业河南省协同创新项目(hnfx14002);广东省产学研项目(2013B090600038);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目[苏政办发(2014)37号];新疆自治区重点研发项目(2016B02025-1)

摘　　要：为了设计开发出质量优异的罗布麻混纺针织用纱,首先针对罗布麻纤维的形态结构及其物理机械性能进行研究分析,然后根据罗布麻纤维的特性将罗布麻纤维与腈纶、莫代尔纤维按混纺比30/50/20纺制成线密度为18.5 tex的纱线。同时,通过正交试验法分析细纱工序中的后区牵伸倍数、隔距块及钢丝圈型号对成纱质量的影响,从而优选出最佳工艺。并对最优工艺下所纺的纱线进行哈氏切片试验,利用Photoshop软件对纱线截面图像进行处理,通过汉密尔顿纤维转移指数方法来分析混纺纱中的纤维转移及径向分布。结果认为：罗布麻纤维的长度整齐度较差,但吸湿透气性、抗菌性较优;罗布麻、腈纶以及莫代尔纤维均具有向纱线外层转移的趋势,但是莫代尔纤维转移的趋势不如罗布麻及腈纶。In order to design and develop high-quality loach linen yarn, the morphological structure and physical and mechanical properties of Apocyuum fibers are studied and analyzed. Apocynum fiber is blended with acrylic and modal fiber according to their characteristics with draw ratio of 30/50/20 and yarn density of 18.5 tex. The influences of drafting ratio at back zone, distance between the block and the bead ring on the yarn quality are analyzed by orthogonal tests in the spinning process, and the process is optimized. The yarn samples are processed by Photoshop software, and the fiber transfer and radial distribution in the blended yarn are analyzed by Hamilton fiber transfer index method. The results show that the length of Robin fiber is poor, but the moisture permeability and antibacterial property are better. Apocynum, acrylic and modal fibers have the tendency to transfer to the outer layer of the yarn, but the transfer trend of modal fiber is less than that of Apocynum and Acrylic.

关 键 词：针织用纱 罗布麻纤维 腈纶 莫代尔纤维 工艺优化 成纱质量 

分 类 号：TS182.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]