贵州苗族百鸟衣装饰绣条样式及其工艺  

Research on the decorative embroidery strip style and craftsmanship of hundred-bird embroidery costume in Guizhou

作　　者：李奇菊[1] 吴天丽 郑慧[1] 龙雪[1] LI Qiju;WU Tianli;ZHENG Hui;LONG Xue(School of Fashion and Textile, Southwest University, Chongqing 400716, China)

机构地区：[1]西南大学纺织服装学院,重庆400716

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第2期64-69,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：重庆市社会科学规划项目(2014YBYS100);西南大学科普项目(20710522)

摘　　要：百鸟衣是贵州苗族一个支系的盛装,非常精美,但外界对其了解甚少。通过田野调查发现,百鸟衣由二十余块绣片组成,绣片与绣片之间通过装饰绣条连接。装饰绣条是一个极具特色的部件,在百鸟衣服饰中起着连接、固定和装饰的作用,其样式丰富,宽窄不一。通过对五十余件百鸟衣服饰进行拍摄、记录与整理,分析得出了装饰绣条由实心三角形贴布绣、镂空贴布绣、平绣和叠布绣四种刺绣工艺按不同的组合方式绣制,其中,叠布绣在不同工艺之间又起到固定和连接的作用。对百鸟衣装饰绣条样式和工艺的研究,有利于苗族传统手工技艺的传承与发展。Hundred-bird embroidery costume is a rich cloth for a branch of Miao minority in Guizhou Province. It is fine but less known by the outside people. Through field investigation, authors found that hundred-bird embroidery costume is composed of more than twenty pieces of embroideries which are linked by decorative embroidery strips. The decorative embroidery strip which plays the role of connection, fixation and decoration is a characteristic part in the hundred-bird embroidery costume. It has rich styles and different width. Through taking pictures for more than fifty pieces of embroidery clothes about this branch of Miao minority, analyzing and sorting them, the conclusion is drawn that decorative embroidery strip consists of four kinds of embroidery processes, including the solid triangle appliqur, hollow appliqu6, flat embroidery and heap cloth embroidery according to different combination. Among them, heap cloth embroidery has the role of fixation and connection in different craftsmanship. Studying on the decorative embroidery strip style and craftsmanship of hundred-bird embroidery costume is in favor of inheritance and development for the traditional craftsmanship of Miao bird clothes.

关 键 词：苗族 装饰绣条 百乌衣 样式 工艺 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]