云锦和鲁锦的比较分析  

Comparative analysis of Yunjin and Lu brocade

作　　者：田悦[1] 王宏付 TIAN Yuea;WANG Hongfub(a. College of Textiles and Clothin;b. Fashion Design and Engineering Laboratory, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学服装设计与工程研究室,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第2期70-75,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社科基金项目(09YJA760013);江苏省2014年度普通高校研究生科研创新计划项目(KYZZ-0316);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号)

摘　　要：织锦是中国传统手工制品,不同地区的织锦具有不同的特色。文章以非物质文化遗产南京云锦和山东鲁锦为研究对象,采用文献查阅和对比分析的研究方法,介绍了云锦和鲁锦的概念、种类;并从外观风格、织造原料、织造设备、制作工序、织物结构及织物用途等对两者进行比较分析。研究发现,两者之间有一定区别、各具特色。通过比较分析可以使南北两大织锦相互借鉴、互通有无,利于传统织锦的传承和弘扬,同时为织锦的深入研究增添理论资料并为现代织锦的创新设计提供灵感来源。Brocade is a traditional handicraft in China and it has different characteristics in different regions.Taking Yunjin and Lu Brocade as the research objects,and adopting literature method and method of comparative analysis ,this paper gives an outline of the concepts and types of Yunjin and Lu Brocade. In addition, this paper makes a comparative analy sis of them from style of appearance, raw materials, equipment, production process, main uses and other aspects. It is found that there are some differences and characteristics between them.Through the comparative analysis, the two brocades with unique cha racteristics of north and south can learn and exchange from each other, which contributes to the inheritance and promotion of traditional brocades. At the same time, the analysis can add new theories for the in-depth study of brocades, and provide inspiration for the innovative design of modern brocades.

关 键 词：云锦 鲁锦 外观风格 制作工序 织物结构 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J523.1[艺术—艺术设计]