棉织物五倍子传统染色配方色彩复原探析  

Research on color recovery of cotton fabrics gallnut traditional dyeing formula

作　　者：徐菲[1] 赵志军[1] 王慧 杨晓华 王瑞华[1] 

机构地区：[1]齐齐哈尔大学美术与艺术设计学院,黑龙江齐齐哈尔161006 [2]沈阳航空航天大学设计艺术学院,辽宁沈阳110136 [3]日内瓦大学自然科学学院

出　　处：《染整技术》2018年第1期7-10,21,共5页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：黑龙江省艺术科学规划课题(2016B078);黑龙江省教育科学"十三五"规划2016年度备案课题(GJC1316132);黑龙江省哲学社会科学研究规划项目(16YSE16);黑龙江省教育厅基本业务专项人文面上项目(135109544)

摘　　要：五倍子为中国传统黑色染材,具有很强的色彩表现力。研究了清抄本《布经》中记载的5种五倍子染色配方,使用棉织物进行了染色复原与分析。结果显示,通过调整媒染工艺及相关工艺参数可以复原阡张灰、羊绒色、牛绒色、硃墨色以及鹰背色;色相清晰、明确,与古代文献描述比较接近,达到了复原目的。复原色样经耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度测试,5种配方染色的织物均达到3级以上的标准,可满足服装服用牢度要求。Gallnut is a Chinese traditional black dye material, with a strong color expression. Five kinds of gallnut dyeing formulas recorded in Qing codex ＂Bu Jing＂ were studied, and the cotton fabrics is used for dyeing recovery and analysis. The results showed that by adjusting the mordant process and related process parameters can recover Qian- zhang gray, cashmere color, cattle velvet color, Zhu ink color and Eagle back color. Its hue is clear and definite, which is close to the description of ancient documents and achieves the purpose of recovery. After washing fastness and rubbing fastness test, recovery color samples of five kinds of dyeing formula technology reached more than 3 scales to meet the requirements of clothing fastness.

关 键 词：中国传统服饰色彩 植物染色 五倍子 黑色系 染色配方 染色牢度 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]