新型双面格子麂皮绒生产实践  

Production Practice of New Double Sided Plaid Suede

作　　者：段小文 

机构地区：[1]浙江七色彩虹集团,浙江绍兴312088

出　　处：《针织工业》2018年第1期5-7,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：采用11.7 tex/36 f涤纶海岛丝和4.4 tex/24 f高收缩涤纶丝与6.7 tex/48 f高收缩涤纶丝交织,在双面大圆机上开发新型双面格子麂皮绒。详细介绍原料选择,以及设备参数、织针排列、三角排列、穿纱方式、面料参数等编织工艺,分析织造工艺、预缩开纤、预定形、磨绒、染色工艺等关键技术。总结出开发凹凸提花效应双面格子麂皮绒在织物结构、花型设计、纱线选择、磨绒工艺、上染速度等方面的具体参数要求,为采用纬编方法开发新型麂皮绒提供参考。A new double sided plaid suede fabric was developed on double circular knitting machine by using11.7 tex/36 f sea-island filament ＋4.4 tex/24 f high shrinkage polyester filament and 6.7 tex/48 f high shrinkage polyester filament interknitting. The knitting technology was introduced in detail, including materials selection,equipment parameters, needle arrangement, cam arrangement, threading ways and fabric parameters. The key technologies of knitting technology, preshrinking, fibre opening process, presetting, sueding and dyeing technology were analyzed. The specific parameters requirements of fabric structure, pattern design, yarn selection, sueding process and dyeing speed in the development of double sided plaid suede fabric with irregular jacquard effect were summarized, which provides references for the development of new suede fabric by weft knitting method.

关 键 词：双面格子麂皮绒 纬编面料 高收缩涤纶 涤纶海岛丝 编织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]