多重集聚纺纱结构成形机制及其针织物性能  

Structural formation mechanism of multiple condensed spun yarn and properties of knitted fabric thereof

作　　者：刘可帅[1] 江伟 杨圣明 郭维琪[1] 夏治刚[1] 倪俊龙[2] 徐卫林[1] 

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学新型纺织材料绿色加工及其功能化教育部重点实验室,湖北武汉430073 [2]安徽华茂集团有限公司,安徽安庆246018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2018年第2期26-31,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金青年科学基金项目(51403161);国家自然科学基金杰出青年基金项目(51325306)

摘　　要：为解决多毛羽传统环锭纱针织困难,而光洁的常规集聚纺纱线织物手感硬的技术难题,建立串联半开放式多重集聚纺纱方法,分析多重集聚纺纱机制和结构成形特征。理论分析结果表明,多重集聚纺纱线具有外紧而内柔的结构特征。基于理论解析,在相同工艺条件下,分别采用传统环锭、常规集聚和多重集聚纱线制成针织面料,对比分析了各针织物压缩回弹、透气、抗起毛起球、耐磨、染色等性能。测试结果表明:与传统环锭纱相比,多重集聚纱线针织物耐磨、透气性、抗起毛起球性改善;与常规集聚纱线相比,多重集聚纱线针织物悬垂性、压缩回弹性和染色性能明显提高。In order to solve problems on hard conversion from convenitional ring hairy yarn to knitted fabric, high rigidity for fabric made of conventional compact smooth yarns, a tandem half-open type multiple condensed spinning method was proposed, then the spinning principle and yarn formation mechanism thereof were theoretically analyzed. The theoretical analysis results indicate that the multiple condensed spun yarn is featured with tight outer layers and soft interior structures. Based on the theoretical analysis, conventional ring, conventional compact and multiple condensed spun yarns were used to produce knitted fabrics with the same machine and knitting parameters, respectively. The knitted fabrics were comparatively investigated in terms of compression resilience, air permeability, moisture permeability, pilling resistance, wear resistance and dyeing performance, respectively. The results indicate that multiple condensed spun yarn fabrics have improved wear resistance, air permeability, moisture permeability and pilling resistance after the comparison with conventional ring yarn fabrics. The fabric drapability, compression resilience and dyeing ability of multiple condensed spun yarns are much better than those of conventional compact yarns.

关 键 词：多重集聚纺 普通集聚纺 传统环锭纺 针织物 

分 类 号：TS104.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]