全棉弹力牛仔布用芯弹纱结构设计及纺纱工艺  

Structure design and spinning technology of the core-spun stretch yarn for all-cotton stretchable denim

作　　者：杨德明 伏永潮 孙勇 张君凯 马秀霞 吕显锋 山松林 王耀 胡吉永[1] 李毓陵[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院 [2]枣庄海扬王朝纺织有限公司 [3]中国棉纺织行业协会

出　　处：《国际纺织导报》2017年第12期12-14,16-18,20,共7页Melliand China

基　　金：全棉芯弹牛仔布生产关键技术及产业化(10117128)

摘　　要：参照赛络菲尔纺纺纱方法,设计了一种全棉弹力牛仔布用芯弹纱,研究其成纱结构、纺纱方法及工艺。针对芯弹纱的用途及结构特点,选择适宜的纱线线密度,研究芯纱线密度、芯纱捻系数、芯弹纱捻系数等因素对全棉芯弹纱捻度、结构、强伸性能及其他成纱性能的影响,并通过三因素三水平正交试验优选适宜的纺纱参数。试验结果显示,为获得条干均匀、毛羽较少、外松内紧的纱线结构,芯弹纱捻系数可参考常规牛仔用纱捻系数,芯纱捻系数应较大、线密度不宜过大;并证实了芯弹纱结构设计的合理性和纺纱工艺的可行性。By the means of siro, a core-spun stretch yarn for all-cotton denim was designed, and the forming mechanism and performance of the core-spun stretch yarn were discussed. According to the characteristics of the core-spun stretch yarn. suitable yarn counts were chosen to study the effect of core yarn density, the initial twist factor of core-yarn and the final twist factor on the twist, structure. tensile strength and other properties of the core-spun stretch yarn. And the appropriate spinning parameters were investigated by an orthogonal experiment of three factors and three levels. The results showed that. to obtain uniform yarn with less hairiness and out-loose and core-tight structure. the twist factor of the core-spun stretchable yarn can refer to the conventional denim yarn. The twist coefficient of core yarn should be larger than that of the coventional denim yarn. And the feasibility of the proposed core-spun stretch yarn structure and the spinning process were demonstrated.

关 键 词：芯弹纱 芯纱 捻系数 结构 

分 类 号：TS104[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]