高级条格男西服工艺技术研究  

Study on processing technology of high-grade check and stripe men's suit

作　　者：王秀丽[1] 王雪 隋玉波 战善良 WANG Xiuli;WANG Xue;SUI Yubo;ZHAN Shanliang(College of Engineering,Yantai Nanshan University, Yantai, Shandong 265706, China;Shandong Nanshan Textile Garments Co., Ltd., Yantai,Shandong 265706, China)

机构地区：[1]烟台南山学院工学院,山东烟台265706 [2]山东南山纺织服饰有限公司,山东烟台265706

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2018年第5期52-56,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：山东省优势特色专项(SDYS201501)

摘　　要：男西服的质量评价很大程度上取决于西服工艺的细节处理,在所有品类西服中,条格西服工艺难度及复杂程度相对较高,需要严格的工艺技术处理。通过对多套定制条格男西服的生产工艺进行技术研究,得出条格西服制作过程中的关键性技术要点,如对条对格工艺的细节处理。高档条格西服款式设计、结构设计排料裁剪及特殊工艺细节之间需要协调配合,在款式设计上,款式简洁与设计相协调;在结构设计上,尽量减少分割且注意重点部位对位的对条格处理。此外,面料的预缩整理及制作者的经验水平直接影响条格男西服的质量水平。The quality of Men＇s Suits depends largely on the details of the suit. In all categories of suits,the technology of the check and stripe suit is relatively difficult and requires strict technical processing. By analyzing the production process of a number of custom-made suits with check and stripe fabric in Shandong Nanshan Textile Garments Co.,Ltd,key technical points in the production process of stripped suits were summarized,especially for the detailed processing of the check and stripe process. A high-grade check and stripe suit requires the coordination of style design,structural design,material cutting and special process details. In the style design,the style is concise and the design is coordinated,in the structure design,as far as possible to reduce the division and pay attention to focus on the position of the pair of bar processing. In addition, the fabric of the pre-shrink finishing and the experience level of the production directly affect the quality of the Men＇ s Suits.

关 键 词：男西服 对条对格 工艺技术 质量评价 

分 类 号：TS941.64[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]