植物染料染制品的剥色与染料光谱特征研究  

Study on Stripping and Dye Spectral Characteristics of Dyed Fabrics with Plant dyes

作　　者：朱逸行 王树根[1] 马东[1] 余君红 陈晓光 吴穗生 ZHU Yi-xing;WANG Shu-gen;MA Dong;YU Jun-hong;CHEN Xiao-guang;WU Hui-sheng(Key Laboratory of Eco-textile of Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122;Guangdong Textile Testing and Measuring Technology Co., Ltd, Guangzhou 510663)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]广东广纺检测计量技术股份有限公司,广东广州510663

出　　处：《纺织科学与工程学报》2018年第2期75-78,共4页Journal of Textile Science & Engineering

基　　金：广州市科技创新委员会产学研协同创新重大专项(201604016028);江南大学大学生创新训练计划(2017204Y)

摘　　要：针对植物染料染色织物的剥色的问题,本实验先采用直接法、媒染法对棉织物进行染色,这些植物染料可以采用乙酸/甲醇/水(体积比为1∶2∶1)有机溶剂体系溶剂提取法提取,然后通过蒸发浓缩纯化溶解之后的染液紫外进行测试,并且测定了棉织物的K/S值,来计算剥色率确立剥色的效果。通过探究实验结果表明:对提取下来的植物染料与标准染料进行紫外的测试对比,确定染料的结构没有被破坏。此外,葡萄籽染料、茜草染料、槐米芦丁染料、石榴皮染料植物染料在近紫外区有着明显的特征吸收峰,而在可见光区的吸收峰很弱,通过orgin软件计算出这几种植物染料的近紫外区的积分面积与可见光区的积分面积比值大于5。Aiming at the stripping problem of dyed fabrics with plant dyes,the cotton fabric was dyed by the direct method and mordant method. By solvent extraction method of organic solvent system with acetic acid：methanol： water = 1：2：1(volume ratio）,these plant dyes could be extracted,the dissolved dye solution was evaporated,concentrated,and conducted UV test. The K/S value of the cotton fabric was measured to calculate the stripping rate to establish the effect of stripping. The experimental results showed that the UV test results of extracted plant dyes and standard dyes were compared to make sure that the structure of the dyes were not destroyed. In addition,the plant dyes such as grape seed dye,madder dye,stilbene dyes,pomegranate skin dye had obvious characteristic absorption peak in the near ultraviolet region while the absorption peak in the visible region was very weak. The integral area ratio of plant dye in the near ultraviolet region and the visible region was greater than 5 by Orgin software.

关 键 词：植物染料 剥色 复合溶剂 染色 

分 类 号：TS193[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]