高针高密双面针织外衣面料生产实践  

Production Practice of Double Sided Fine-needle and High-density Knitted Garments Fabric

作　　者：陈亚明 李群芳 Chen Yaming;Li Qunfang(Shanghai Century Textiles Co., Ltd., Shanghai 200333, China;Jiangyin Fuhui Textiles Co., Ltd., Wuxi, Jiangsu 214434, China)

机构地区：[1]上海先诚纺织有限公司,上海200333 [2]江阴福汇纺织有限公司,江苏无锡214434

出　　处：《针织工业》2018年第5期8-11,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：采用高机号圆筒针织双面机,设计开发高针高密双面针织面料,介绍设备和原料的选择以及5款花型设计方法,包括芝麻点效果双面提花、竖条效果提花罗纹、米格效果双面提花、人字纹效果双面提花及斜纹效果提花罗纹织物。采用5.6 tex半消光锦纶6长丝与12.0 tex黏胶赛络纺纱线交织开发棉毛组织面料,详细介绍面料的编织工艺和染整工艺,最后测试成品面料的性能指标。该面料细腻紧实、弹性好、手感柔软、有骨感,适用于针织运动休闲服。该研究为细针距面料的开发提供了有效方法和工艺。This paper designs and develops a kind of fine-needle and high-density double sided knitted fabric by using high gauge double sided circular knitting machine. It introduces the selection of equipment and raw materials and 5 types of pattern designs, including double jacquard with birds eye effect, jacquard rib with vertical stripes effect, double jacquard with cross plaid, double jacquard with herringbone and jacquard rib with twill effect.It develops cotton interlock fabric by using 5.6 tex semi-dull nylon 6 filament and 12.0 tex viscose siro spun yarn,and introduces in detail knitting process and dyeing and finishing process and tests the performance of the finished fabric. The fabric is close-knitted, elastic, soft and vigorous, which is suitable for knitting sportswear and casual suits. It provides an effective method and technology for the development of fine gauge fabric.

关 键 词：高针高密 双面针织面料 细针距 针织外衣化 花型设计 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]