常用紫外吸收剂在氙灯下的光降解及保护性研究  

Photodegradation and protection of commonly used ultraviolet absorbers under xenon lamp

作　　者：薛绘 杨盼盼 毕永贤 张金龙 XUE Hui;YANG Pan-pan;BI Yong-xian;ZHANG Jin-long(Proya Cosmetic Corporation Limited, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310012, China)

机构地区：[1]珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司,浙江杭州310012

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2018年第6期32-36,44,共6页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：考察了17种常用紫外吸收剂的光降解情况并筛选出最佳的保护方案,采用日光模拟器测试紫外吸收剂在氙灯光照下的光降解情况,评价不同种类光保护剂提升紫外吸收剂光稳定性的能力,得到具有协同光保护作用的最佳方案。结果表明:丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯和二甲基PABA乙基己酯3种紫外吸收剂的光稳定性最差,光照2 h后剩余量仅有42%,68%和71%,由质量分数为2.0%的丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、1.0%的维生素E乙酸酯及1.0%的四己基癸醇抗坏血酸酯组成的光保护组合物可极大改善紫外吸收剂的光降解情况,提升防晒配方的SPF值。The photodegradation of 17 kinds of commonly used ultraviolet absorbers was studied and the optimal protection scheme was sifted. Sunlight simulator was used to test the photodegradation of ultraviolet absorbers under the illumination of xenon lamp. The abilities of different kinds of photo protective agents to enhance the photostability of ultraviolet absorbers were evaluated, in order to get the best solution with synergistic photoprotection. The results show that the photostabilities of BMBM, EHMC and EHDP are the lowest, whose residual quantities are only 42%, 68% and 71% after irradiation under xenon lamp for 2 h. The photo protective formula containing 2.0% acrylate copolymer, 1.0% vitamin E acetate and 1.0% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can greatly improve the photostability of ultraviolet absorbers and enhance the SPF value of the sunscreen tbrmula.

关 键 词：紫外吸收剂 氙灯 光降解 光保护 SPF值 

分 类 号：TQ658.3[化学工程—精细化工]