拉链缝制起拱原因分析及预控  

Reason Analysis and Pre-control of Arch in Zipper Sewing

作　　者：叶宁[1] YE Ning(Jinhua Polytechnic,Jinhua 321007,China)

机构地区：[1]金华职业技术学院,浙江金华321007

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2018年第6期29-33,共5页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：通过研究拉链布带收缩、面料收缩和缝缩等,分析了拉链缝制起拱的直接原因。结果表明,布带的缝缩率对峰谷差有显著性正向影响;布带的缩水和热缩会影响拉链外观平整;面料的缩水对成衣洗后平整度影响显著;弹性面料的伸长率越大,拉链的平整度越差。同时提出了预防控制起拱的措施,供快速判断拉链缝制技术参数、改善缝制外观参考。The direct causes of arch in zipper sewing were analyzed through the study of zipper cloth tape shrinkage,fabric shrinkage and seam pucker.The results showed that the shrinkage rate had a significant positive influence on the difference between the peak and the valley.The washing shrinkage and thermal shrinkage of cloth tape would affect the flatness.The shrinkage of fabric had remarkable effect on the flatness after washing.The elongation percentage of the elastic fabric was greater,the flatness of the zipper was worse.The measures for preventing and controling the arch were put forward.It could provide reference for quick judgment of the zipper sewing technical parameters and the improvement of the sewing appearance.

关 键 词：拉链起拱 缝缩 伸长率 缩率 溶位 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]