采用滑溜牵伸的低比例山羊绒混纺纺纱实践  

Spinning of low-ratio cashmere blends under slipping draft

作　　者：王瑞洁[1] 李龙[1] 秦彩霞[1] WANG Ruijie, LI Long, QIN Caixia(School of Textile ＆ Materials, Xi＇an Polytechnic University, Xi＇an, Shaanxi 710048, China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学纺织与材料学院,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《纺织学报》2018年第6期24-28,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：陕西省重点学科建设专项资金项目(陕教财[2011]176)

摘　　要：针对山羊绒与羊毛长度差异较大、牵伸隔距难以确定的问题,在JWF-1516型棉纺环锭细纱机上采用滑溜牵伸与非滑溜牵伸的方式纺制山羊绒/羊毛混纺纱、山羊绒/羊毛/桑蚕丝混纺纱,分析滑溜牵伸与非滑溜牵伸方式纺制低比例山羊绒混纺纱的线密度和纱线质量。纺纱试验结果表明:采用滑溜牵伸与非滑溜牵伸的方式,均可纺制单纱线密度为11.1 tex的羊毛/山羊绒(84/16)混纺纱与羊毛/山羊绒(65/35)混纺纱;与非滑溜牵伸方式相比,采用滑溜牵伸方式纺制的细纱粗节与细节明显减少;采用滑溜牵伸方式,可纺制单纱线密度为10 tex的羊毛/山羊绒(84/16)混纺纱(单纱条干CV值为19%),和单纱线密度为8.3 tex的羊毛/山羊绒/桑蚕丝(80/10/10)混纺纱(单纱条干CV值为18.8%),但这2种线密度的混纺纱用非滑溜牵伸方式不可纺。Aiming at the problems on the bigger difference between cashmere length and wool length and hard determination of draft gauge, the cashmere/wool blend yarn and cashmere/wool/silk blend yarn were spun, respectively, on the JWF-1516 cotton ring frame using the slipping draft or non-slipping draft, and the spun yarn linear density and yarn quality under the slipping draft or non-slipping draft were analyzed. The spinning results show that using the slipping draft or non-slipping draft, wool/cashmere（84/16） blend yarn and wool/cashmere（65/35） blend yarn with the yarn linear density of 11.1 tex can be spun, and compared with that spun by the non-slipping draft, yarn spun by the slipping draft has significantly reduced yarn thick value and yarn thin value. Using the slipping draft, wool/cashmere（84/16） blend yarn（the the single yarn evenness CV value is 19%） with the single yarn linear density of 10 tex and cashmere/wool/silk（80/10/10） blend yarn（the single yarn evenness CV value is 18.8%） with the single yarn linear density of 8.3 tex can be spun, respectively, but the blend yarns of the two linear densities can not be spun by the non-slipping draft.

关 键 词：山羊绒 混纺纱 滑溜牵伸 非滑溜牵伸 

分 类 号：TS134.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]