利用十字交叉法测试织物弯曲悬垂性  

Measurement of fabric bending and draping properties using crossing method

作　　者：刘成霞[1,2] 周澳 LIU Chengxia1,2, ZHOU Ao1(1. School of Fashion Design ＆ Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang310018, China;2. Zhejiang Province Engineering Laboratory of Clothing Digital Technology, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]服装数字化技术浙江省工程实验室,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2018年第6期42-46,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(51405446);浙江理工大学科研启动基金项目(15072096-Y);浙江理工大学521人才支持计划项目(11110232241517)

摘　　要：为探索可同时测试织物弯曲性和悬垂性的方法,以20块常见织物为研究对象,分别用斜面法和圆台法测试弯曲长度和悬垂系数,然后用自行设计的十字交叉法进行测试,并提取了横向下垂距离、纵向下垂距离和弯曲悬垂系数。研究结果表明:十字交叉法既可用来检测织物弯曲性,也可检测织物悬垂性,且3个指标与斜面法的弯曲长度都具有较好的相关性,其相关系数由大到小依次是弯曲悬垂系数、横向下垂距离、纵向下垂距离;弯曲悬垂系数与圆台法测得的悬垂系数也具有高度相关性;十字交叉法将传统的织物弯曲性和悬垂性的测试合二为一,既简化了操作步骤,又节约了时间。To investigate a measurement that can test fabric bending and draping performance simultaneously, 20 common fabrics were chosen and tested with the method of bevel and circular table to obtain the bending length and draping factor. Then the self-designed crossing method was used, as a result, horizontal hanging distance, vertical hanging distance, the bending ＆ draping coefficient were extracted. After research, the following conclusion was drawn： the crossing method can be used to test both fabric bending performance and fabric draping performance. The three parameters all have good correlation coefficients with bending length of bevel method, the coefficients from large to small are bending ＆ draping coefficient, horizontal hanging distance, vertical hanging distance. Furthermore, there is good correlation between bending ＆ draping coefficient with draping factor of the circular table method. The crossing method combines the measurement of fabric bending and fabric draping performance into one test, which can simplify the operations and save time.

关 键 词：织物 弯曲性 悬垂性 弯曲悬垂系数 弯曲长度 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]