面料厚度对连翻领翻折角度的影响  

Influence of Fabric Thickness on the Turning Angle of the Overturned Collar

作　　者：张艳 黄美凤 贺克杰 ZHANG Yan;HUANG Mei-feng;HE Ke-jie(Textiles and Clothing Department,Quanzhou Normal University,Quanzhou Fujian 362000,China)

机构地区：[1]泉州师范学院纺织与服装学院,福建泉州362000

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2018年第3期57-63,共7页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：福建省教育厅中青年教师教育科研项目(JAT160401)

摘　　要：为使连翻领结构造型美观,且符合人体颈部的需要,以日本文化式女装84A号型为衣身原型,绘制相同款式不同翻折角度的连翻领样板,并选用厚薄程度不同且具有代表性的10种无弹性面料制作成连翻领。实验分析面料厚度对翻折角度的影响以及当领座高和翻领宽数值变化时,面料厚度对翻折角度变化规律的影响,结果表明:面料厚度与翻折角高度相关,翻折角度随面料厚度的增加呈递增趋势;当翻领宽与领座高差值变化越大,面料越厚,连翻领翻折角度变化越大。In order to make the overturned Collar beautiful and be fit to the human neck, 10 kinds of inelastic fabrics with different thickness are selected to draw the collar pattern with the same styles and different folding angles used 84 A of Japanese cultural pattern. This article studied the influence of fabricthickness on the turning angle,as well as the rule of change of the turning angle as the margin between the width of overturned collar and the height of collar stand change. The results show that the quantitative relationship about fabric thickness and the turning angle is presented. When the margin between the width of overturned collar and the height of collar changes, the thicker of fabric, the larger of angle; the larger the value differences between lapel width and stand collar height and the thicker of fabric, the larger of the lapel angular variation will be created.

关 键 词：连翻领 面料厚度 翻折角度 翻领宽 领座高 差值 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]