贾宝玉“女性化”服饰考  

Study on Feminized Costumes of JIA Baoyu

作　　者：夏添[1,2] 牛犁 XIA Tian;NIU Li(College of Textile and Fashion,Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan,Hunan,411104,China;College of Textile and Fashion,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu,214122,China)

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院纺织服装学院,湖南湘潭411104 [2]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2018年第2期52-57,共6页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

基　　金：江苏省科学研究项目[编号:16YSB007];湖南省教育厅科学研究项目[编号:16C0411]

摘　　要：从《红楼梦》中贾宝玉的服饰刻画切入,探讨贾宝玉"女性化"服饰现象由来。首先针对《红楼梦》中贾宝玉的首服、上衣、下裳、内衣、足服、皮草、雨雪装、配挂饰物进行分类梳理;其次以明清笔记、历史文献为基础考证贾宝玉服饰的现实来源,探明贾宝玉服饰的奢华与僭越的具体表现,并提出贾宝玉服饰"女性化"现象是以色彩与纹饰作为表现媒介。得出贾宝玉"女性化"服饰的形成是受生活环境、心理因素、封建礼仪制度3方面综合影响的结论。From the depiction of the costume details of Jia Baoyu in A Dream of Red Mansions, this paper discusses the origin of the feminized costumes phenomenon of Jia Baoyu. Firstly, Jia’s hats, coats, pants,underwear, shoes, fur, raincoats and accessories are classified and combed. Secondly, the actual source of Jia’s costumes as well as the extravagance and excess performance is verified based on the notes and historical documents in Ming and Qing dynasties. The paper points out that the feminized costumes phenomenon of Jia’s costumes takes the color and the decoration as the expression media. It is concluded that the formation of Jia’s feminized costumes was influenced by living environment, psychological factors and feudal etiquette system.

关 键 词：贾宝玉 女性化 服饰文化 性别特征 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]