喇叭裙斜裁角度的优化  

Optimization of the bias-cutting angels based on the style of flared skirt

作　　者：王红歌 李亚娟 胡雪慧 WANG Hongge;LI Yajuan;HU Xuehui(School of Fashion,Henan University of Engineering,Zhengzhou,Henan 451191,China)

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院服装学院,河南郑州451191

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2018年第7期58-63,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：河南省教育科学规划课题([2016]-JKGHB-0296))

摘　　要：针对面料性能、斜裁角度对喇叭裙造型的影响,通过客观实验从18种面料中遴选出6种适合制作喇叭裙的面料,选取斜裁角度为0°~90°进行实验,确定斜裁角度为45°左右。基于流行款式的喇叭裙及标准体型数据,选择6种面料与3个斜裁角度(35°、45°、55°),采用动静态评价方法对喇叭裙外观形态进行综合评价,获得了最佳斜裁角度为35°和45°的喇叭裙面料分类,为优化喇叭裙结构设计及相关企业生产提供了一定的理论参考。18 fabrics suitable for flared skirt were selected to study the effect of fabric performance, bias-cutting angle on styling of flared skirt, bias-cutting angle between 0-90° were chosen for preliminary experiment,and the results show that optimized angle was 45 °. Based on the trendy style of flared skirt and standard body data, the appearance of sample skirts were evaluated comprehensively using the static and dynamic evaluation methods between 6 fabrics and 3 bias-cutting angels （35°、45°、55°）, the optimized fabric classification for bias-cutting angels of 45° and 35° were got,which will provide some therotical reference for the optimization of flared skirt＇s structure design and the related factories＇ production.

关 键 词：喇叭裙 面料性能 斜裁角度 综合评价 

分 类 号：TS941.717.8[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]