柯尔克孜族驼毛织物“切普坎”的传承与创新研究  

Research on inheritance and innovation of the Kirgiz's camel fabric Qiepukan

作　　者：钱娟 肖爱民[1] 饶蕾[1] 马丽芸[1] 张初阳[2] QIAN Juan;XIAO Aimin;RAO Lei;MA Liyun;ZHANG Chuyang(College of Textile and Clothing,Xinjiang University,Urumqi,Xinjiang 830046,China;College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]新疆大学纺织与服装学院,新疆乌鲁木齐830046 [2]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2018年第8期72-75,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：2017年度国家社会科学基金西部项目(17XMZ095);新疆维吾尔自治区普通高校人文社科重点研究基地项目(XJEDU040816C03)

摘　　要：通过田野调查,详细记述了柯尔克孜驼毛织物"切普坎"的织造过程、织造工具;分析织造过程及织物特征,提取了该面料的特色工艺并指导现代织物设计,从而推进该非物质文化遗产的传承与创新。通过调研及实物测试分析发现,三角整经桩与简易织机是制作"切普坎"主要工具,织成的织物为平纹结构,形成的织物结构相为经支持面结构,经纱不匀是影响布面效果的重要因素,布面山形斜纹的特征的形成与不同捻向的经纱交替使用有关,而深浅条纹的形成则与经纱使用的驼毛颜色有关。通过改变经纱颜色,增加简易织机的分经系统,可以设计出具有现代感的彩色条纹或提花织物。In this paper, the weaving process and weaving tool were recorded in detail through field investigation. The features of the craft and weaving technology were extracted in order to be applied into modern fabric designing. It was found that trigonal warping machine and aelinie loom were the main equipment and plain weave structure was adopted to weave Qiepukan. The visual quality of the fabric was mainly influenced by the warp yarn unevenness because the typical warp support structure of Qiepukan. The reverse twill structure in Qiepukan surface is related to the twist of warp yarn, and warp streakiness is concerned with the color of raw camel wool. Modern colorful stripe fabric and jacquard woven fabric can be designed by changing the color of warp yarn and adding leasing system in the simple aelinic loom.

关 键 词：柯尔克孜族 驼毛织物 织造工艺 传承与创新 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]