合体2片袖扣势的技术研究与实践  

Technological Research and Practice of the Angle of Close Fitting Two-piece Sleeve

作　　者：汤瑞昌[1] TANG Rui-chang(Guangdong Polytechnic Institute,Foshan,Guangdong 528000,China)

机构地区：[1]广东职业技术学院,佛山528000

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2018年第2期58-65,73,共9页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

摘　　要：以研究合体2片袖的扣势为目的,通过剖析人体上肢生理结构特点及运动机能,在保证袖山高、袖山容量、袖长、袖口、样衣采用的面料及相关实验人员等因素不变的前提下,运用服装CAD进行制版,通过对公主线分割的合体型女上装进行配袖,采用杆状测量的实验方法,对实物样衣的外观进行定性、定量评价.结果表明:旋转袖筒是袖子扣势形成的主要因素,当袖筒向内侧左旋2cm时,取得的袖子造型兼具了外在的美观性与内在穿着的舒适性.To study the angle of close fitting two-piece sleeve,biological structure and movement of the arm were analyzed. Clothing CAD was adopted to make the pattern on the premise that sleeve cap,width of sleeve cap,sleeve length,sleeve opening,fabric of sample garment and volunteer are invariant. The sleeves for the close fitting women＇s jacket segmented by princess line was matched and bar-shape horizontal measuring method was adopted to qualitative and quantitative evaluate the appearance of sample garment. The results showed that,rotation of sleeve is the main factor that causes the angle of sleeve and the best appearance and comfort can be achieved when the sleeve is rotated inwards left by 2 cm.

关 键 词：合体两片袖 杆状水平测量 扣势 旋转 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]