装袖袖山吃势的研究  

Research on Sleeve Cap Ease for Set-in Sleeve

作　　者：丁雪琴 赵欲晓[1] DING Xue-qin;ZHAO Yu－xiao(Bcijing lnstitutc of Fashion Tcchnology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院,北京100029

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2018年第9期34-38,42,共6页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：通过袖山立体造型到平面图形的展开,对袖山上部线型形态进行纵横剖面解析,找到决定袖山上部线型的纵横尺寸,并根据面料厚度、缝份倒向构成袖山上部线型的变化;诠释了袖山上部线型长度的构成关系,论证了与袖笼吻合点间长度差即袖山吃势不是一个定值;该尺寸与诸多因素有关,当某一因素变化时袖山吃势的大小也随之变化。The vertical and horizontal profiles of the upper part of the sleeve cap was analyzed through the unfolding from the three dimensional molding to the plane figure. Vertical and horizontal dimensions that determined the upper line type of the sleeve cap were found. According to the thickness of the fabric and the reverse of the seam, the upper line type of the sleeve cap could be changed. The relationship of the upper line length of the sleeve cap was interpreted. It was demonstrated that sleeve cap ease was not fixed value. The size was related to many factors. The sleeve cap ease would change with the change of certain factor.

关 键 词：展开 纵横剖面 缝份倒向 面料厚度 袖山吃势 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]