全棉色织仿丝绸面料的设计与生产实践  

Design and production practice of cotton yarn-dyed imitation silk fabrics

作　　者：隋全侠 瞿建新 SUI Quanxia;QU Jianxin(Jiangsu Engineering Vocational Technology College,Nantong 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2018年第9期48-50,54,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：江苏省高职院校青年教师企业实践培训资助项目(2016QYSJ016);江苏省高等学校大学生创新创业训练计划项目(201610958013Y);江苏高校品牌专业建设工程资助项目(PPZY2015A093);江苏先进纺织工程中心建设项目(苏政办发[2014]22)

摘　　要：设计与生产了一种全棉色织仿丝绸面料,该产品为长绒棉与细绒棉混纺的紧密纺高支面料,织物经纬密度高,生产难度大。介绍了织物设计及各工序生产工艺要点。络筒、整经、浆纱工序采用“低车速、小张力”的工艺原则。浆料配方以“高浓、低粘、小伸长、重浸透,求被覆”为基本原则。织造工序采用“低车速、高后梁、早开口、辅喷小隔距、喷气低压力”工艺,通过压光后整理,面料手感细腻,光洁如丝绸。通过采取一系列工艺措施,保证了织造的顺利进行。The cotton yarn-dyed imitation silk fabrics are designed and produced. This product is a compact spinning high-count ymrn blended with long-staple cotton and fine velvet cotton. The fabric has a high density of warp and welt, making it difficult to produce. The fabric design and the main points of the production process are introduced. The winding, warping, and sizing processes use the principle of ＂low speed, small tension＂. The size formula uses ＂high concentration, low viscosity, small elongation, more soaking, and striving to cover＂ as basic principle. The weaving process uses the principle ＂low speed, high back rest in weaving, early opening, auxiliary small distance, jet low pressure＂. After calendaring finishing, the fabric features exquisite handle and smooth like silk. Through a series of technological measures, the smooth process of weaving is ensured.

关 键 词：棉 色织 高密 仿丝绸 浆料配方 织造 后整理 

分 类 号：TS116[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]