仿针织牛仔面料的设计与开发  

Design and Weaving of Knitting-like Jean Fabric

作　　者：任晓珊 谭冬宜[1] 周铮 蔡磊 REN Xiao shan;TAN Dong yi;ZHOU Zheng;CAI Lei(College of Textile ＆ Fashion, Hunan Institute of Engineering, Xiangtan 411104, China)

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院纺织服装学院,湘潭411104

出　　处：《湖南工程学院学报（自然科学版）》2018年第3期76-78,共3页Journal of Hunan Institute of Engineering(Natural Science Edition)

基　　金：2017年国家级大学生创新创业训练计划项目(201711342003)

摘　　要：以重纬组织为基础,经纱采用靛蓝纯棉纱,设计并织制了两种风格不同的仿针织牛仔面料.利用表纬长浮线浮于织物反面,将纬编针织物衬垫组织反面长浮线的特点融入到牛仔面料的设计中.利用里纬与经纱交织构成织物底布,使织物正面呈现"V"字型破斜纹风格.通过针织物与机织物的结构融合,设计的仿针织牛仔面料既保留了经典的靛蓝斜纹风格,同时织物反面的长浮线改善了传统牛仔面料透气、透湿性差的缺陷.On the basis of double weft weave, two kinds of knitting like Jean fabric with different styles are designed and woven with indigo dyed cotton yarn. The long floating line of the weft yarns is floated on the reverse side of the fabric, and the long floating line characteristic of the weft knitted Laying in stitch fabric are integrated into the design of the jean fabric. The fabric backi ner weft and warp yarn so that the front surface of the fabric has a ng V is formed by interweaving the in shaped twill style. Through the structure fusion of knitted fabric and woven fabric, the imitatively knitting like jean fabrics design not only preserves the classic indigo proves the poor permeabilit twill style, but also the long floating line of the reverse side of the fabric im y and moisture permeability of the traditional jean fabrics.

关 键 词：仿针织 牛仔面料 衬垫组织 重纬组织 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]