吸湿凉感纬编针织面料开发  

Development of Moisture Absorbing and Cool Feeling Weft Knitted Fabric

作　　者：王启明 陈力群 许贻东 杨阳[2] 张佩华[2] Wang Qiming;Chen Liqun;Xu Yidong;Yang Yang;Zhang Peihua(Quanzhou Haitian Material Technology Co.,Ltd.,Quanzhou,Fujian 362000,China;College of Textile,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]泉州海天材料科技股份有限公司,福建泉州362000 [2]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《针织工业》2018年第9期9-14,共6页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家重点研发计划资助项目(2017YFB0309100)

摘　　要：优选细旦和超细旦聚酯长丝、阳离子可染聚酯长丝、阳离子可染聚酯仿棉长丝、锦纶长丝以及凉感功能聚酯长丝等为原料,采用罗纹排针配置的复合组织结构设计以及染整工艺,开发8款克质量为90～180 g/m2的吸湿凉感双面纬编面料。详细介绍面料的设计思路、原料选择、组织结构设计、编织工艺及染整工艺,并测试织物的透气性、抗起毛起球性、柔软性、吸湿速干性及瞬间接触凉感功能。结果表明,开发的织物手感柔软、透气性良好、服用性能佳,并且具有良好的吸湿排汗、导湿快干和凉感功能。By optimizing selected fine denier and ultra-fine denier polyester filament, cationic dyeable polyester filament, cationic dyeable polyester cotton-like filament, polyamide filament and cool feeling functional polyester filament as raw materials, eight kinds of moisture absorbing and cooling feeling double-sided weft knitted fabrics with the weight per square meter of 90-180 g/m2 were developed through the design of composite structure of rib gating and dyeing and finishing process. The design idea, raw material selection, fabric structure design, knitting process and dyeing and finishing process were introduced in detail, and the air permeability, pilling resistance, flexibility, moisture absorbing, quick drying and instantaneous contact cooling feeling function of the fabric were tested. The results show that the developed fabrics have soft hand, good air permeability, good wearability, moisture absorption and sweat transferring function, moisture conduction and quick drying function and cool feeling function.

关 键 词：纬编 面料开发 吸湿排汗 导湿快干 凉感功能 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]