粗纺羊毛织物差异化染整工艺研究  

Study on the differentiation process of dyeing and finishing of woollen fabric

作　　者：沈建军 陈维国[2] 张金莲 王春荣 吴玉锌 SHEN Jianjun;CHEN Weiguo;ZHANG Jinlian;WANG Chunrong;WU Yuxin(Zhejiang Shenzhou Woollen Textile Co.,Ltd,Jiashan,Zhejiang 314100,China;The Research Center for Eco？dyeing and Finishing Engineering,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci？Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江神州毛纺织有限公司,浙江嘉善314100 [2]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2018年第10期29-33,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：通过研究树脂防缩剂对羊毛织物处理后的染色缩率、水洗缩率、染色性能和机械缩呢缩率的影响,证实了所选防缩剂的防缩处理对羊毛织物有很好的防缩效果,羊毛染色及水洗加工对其影响较小。羊毛织物经防缩剂处理前后,织物的染色缩率、水洗缩率、染色性能和机械缩呢缩率等方面产生明显差异。实验结果还表明:当选用150 g/L树脂防缩剂M-1处理时,防缩处理和未处理的羊毛织物独自染色后K/S值相差不大,但二者同浴染色时发生了竞染,且K/S值有很大差别;缩呢后二者的经纬向缩率也相差很大。为此,采用印花的方法将防缩剂印制到粗纺羊毛织物上,经染色、缩呢等后续加工,开发出了面料表面具有颜色深度差异化,或呢面收缩差异化而呈现凹凸立体感的浮雕效果等独特风格的新颖粗纺羊毛织物。The effect of shrinkage resistance resin on dyeing shrinkage, washing shrinkage, dyeing property and felting shrinkage of woollen fabric were studied. The results demonstrated that the effect of shrinkage resistance treatment on woollen fabric was obvious while dyeing and washing was not obvious. The difference between the resin finished and untreated woollen fabrics in the aspects of dyeing shrinkage, washing shrinkage, dyeing property and felting shrinkage was obvious.The results also showed that when 150 g/L resin M-1 was applied, there was a little difference between the resin finished and untreated woollen fabrics on the colour yield（K/S） when they were dyed respectively. If they were dyed in one bath, the differences on the colour yield（K/S） were obvious due to the competitive dyeing. There were also big differences on warp and weft shrinkage between the resin finished and untreated woollen fabrics with when they were felted. Therefore, the resin was printed on woollen fabrics, some novel woollen fabrics with various colors and embosses effect in three dimension due to differential shrinkage were developed by methods of printing shrinkage agents on fabrics and then dyeing and felting.

关 键 词：羊毛 粗纺织物 树脂 防缩剂 差异化 染整 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]