缂绒面料手感硬挺粗糙问题的解决方法  

Methods to improve the rough handle of cashmere fabric with cut designs

作　　者：马玉单 MA Yudan(China Textile Planning Institute of Construction,Beijing 100125,China)

机构地区：[1]中国纺织建设规划院,北京100125

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2018年第11期50-53,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：针对开发非物质文化遗产传承的再创新产品需求,对以经纱为生丝、纬纱为羊绒的缂绒面料存在手感硬挺、粗糙问题进行分析研究。采用实验对比的方法,总结出以特定生物酶为助剂,在不影响羊绒纤维形态的情况下改善缂绒面料手感硬挺、粗糙的方法,达到面料中经纱生丝的脱胶程度高,同时纬纱山羊绒的损伤程度低。为缂丝技艺实现再创新,研发更高水平的缂绒产品奠定了基础。To fulfill the requirement of intangible cultural heritage and innovative product development, the problem of stiff and rough handle on woof cashmere fabric was studied. The cashmere fabric with cut designs refers to fabric with raw silk as warp yarn and cashmere as weft yarn. By using the method of experimental comparison, the specific biologic enzymes was used as additives to improve the handle of existing tapestry fabric, without affecting the morphology of cashmere fiber. In other words, the degumming degree of the silk yarn in the fabric is high, and the damage degree of the weft cashmere is low. Through re-innovation, this intangible cultural treasures of Kesi art laid the foundation for developing high level tapestry cashmere products.

关 键 词：缂绒面料 手感 生物酶 脱胶程度 损伤程度 

分 类 号：TS195.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]