河北木蓝树叶对真丝面料的染色性能研究  

Dyeing properties of Indigofera bungeana leaves on silk fabric

作　　者：祖倚丹[1] 李龙春 王瑾[1] 刘雨浩 申凯旋 ZU Yidan;LI Longchun;WANG Jin;LIU Yuhao;SHEN Kaixuan(College of Textile and Garment,Hebei University of Science ＆ Technology,Shijiazhuang 050018,China)

机构地区：[1]河北科技大学纺织服装学院

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2018年第11期31-34,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：河北省高等学校人文社会科学研究项目(SD171083)

摘　　要：以传统的水煮法制取河北木蓝树叶染液。采用单因子试验方法研究并优化染液浓度和染色时间,再以染色时间、染色温度、染液pH作为控制变量设计正交试验方案,优化直接染色和媒染染色工艺。结果表明,河北木蓝树叶直接染色为浅棕色调,媒染染色为深棕或深棕黄色调。直接染色和媒染染色优化工艺均为：染色温度100℃、染色时间90min、pH 7。经过水洗,直接染色和媒染染色的面料色调都变得更深。直接染色和媒染染色具有良好的水洗色牢度,加入皂矾媒染剂后日晒色牢度明显提高。作为一种植物染料,河北木蓝树叶具有较好的染色性能。Extraction of Indigofera bungeana leaves is carried out by boiling the leaves in water for an hour, and then the natural dyes are used for silk dyeing with direct dyeing process and mordant dyeing process. The concentration of dyeing solution and dyeing time are optimized by single factor experiments, and orthogonal experimental designs are carried out with dyeing temperature, dyeing time and pH value as variation factors. The results show that the shade of silk dyeings show light brown with direct dyeing process and deep brown/deep yellow brown with mordant dyeing process. The optimum conditions of direct dyeing and mordant dyeing are IO0-C for 90 min with pH value of 7. The shade of the both silk dyeings deepen after washing. The color fastness to washing is good. The dyeings with FeSO4 as the mordant could significantly improve the color fastness to sunlight. Indigofera bungeana leave as a kind of plant dye has good dyeing properties.

关 键 词：真丝 直接染色 媒染 染液浓度 染色时间 染色温度 pH 河北木蓝树叶 

分 类 号：TS190.644[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]