缎纹组织机织涤纶仿丝绸面料纰裂性能研究  

Study on Slippage Property of Satin Woven Polyester Silk-like Fabrics

作　　者：王革辉[1] 田紫娟 WANG Ge-hui;TIAN Zi-juan(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2018年第4期7-11,18,共6页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

摘　　要：对市售的29种缎纹组织涤纶仿丝绸机织面料的规格参数、纬纱断裂伸长率和在100N定负荷下其纰裂性能进行了测试与分析。研究结果表明:在100N定负荷纰裂测试中,实验织物的经纱滑移量与纬纱滑移量存在显著差异;且实验织物的经纱滑移量大于纬纱滑移量,其经纱滑移现象较纬纱严重;但100N定负荷纰裂测试中的经纱滑移量与织物在断裂拉伸测试中100N负荷下的纬纱伸长率不存在显著相关,故采用定负荷法对弹力织物进行纰裂测试并不完全准确,并提出了采用定伸长率法对弹力织物进行纰裂测试来研究弹力织物纰裂性能的新方向。The specifications, the weft elongation at break and the slippage properties at 100N constant load of 29 kinds of satin weave polyester silk-like fabrics were tested and analyzed. The results show that in 100N con- stant load slippage test, there is a significant difference between the slippage of warp and weft. The warp slippage of the experimental fabric is larger than the weft slippage and the phenomenon of the warp slippage is more seri- ous than that of weft. However, in the 100N constant load slippage test, there is no significant correlation between the slip amount of warp yam and the weft elongation of the fabrics under 100N load in the tensile test at break. Therefore, it is not completely accurate to test the elastic fabric slippage with constant load method. This paper also puts forward a new direction to study the slippage property of elastic fabric by using constant elongation method.

关 键 词：缎纹组织机织涤纶仿丝绸面料 纰裂 经纱滑移量 纬纱伸长率 

分 类 号：TS941.16[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]