五倍子丝织物传统后媒染工艺染色效果增强因素分析  

Reinforcing factors in the dyeing effect of traditional after-mordanting dyeing with gallnut to silk fabric

作　　者：赵志军[1] 徐菲[1] 刘洪澍[2] 李东[3] 刘剑虹[4] ZHAO Zhijun;XU Fei;LIU Hongshu;LI Dong;LIU Jianhong(College of Art & Design, Qiqihar University, Qiqihar 161006, China;College of Liberal Arts, Liaoning University,Shenyang 110136, China;College of Materials Science and Engineering, Beifang University of Nationalities,Yinchuan 750021, China;College of Material Science and Engineering,Qiqihar University, Qiqihar 161006, China)

机构地区：[1]齐齐哈尔大学美术与艺术设计学院,黑龙江齐齐哈尔161006 [2]辽宁大学文学院,辽宁沈阳110136 [3]北方民族大学材料科学与工程学院,宁夏银川750021 [4]齐齐哈尔大学材料科学与工程学院,黑龙江齐齐哈尔161006

出　　处：《印染助剂》2017年第10期39-42,共4页Textile Auxiliaries

基　　金：黑龙江省教育科学"十三五"规划2016年度重点课题(GJB1316109);黑龙江省哲学社会科学研究规划项目(16YSE16);2016年黑龙江省教育厅基本业务专项人文面上项目(135109544)

摘　　要：五倍子可染黑灰色系,为了探讨五倍子染黑的色度控制因素,采用水煮法萃取色素,选取媒染剂用量和染色次数对丝织物进行单因素后媒染工艺试验,对所得颜色特征值进行色度表征,确定了五倍子传统染色工艺的显色规律及色彩L*、a*、b*、c*值的范围。结果表明:皂矾媒染剂用量和染色次数均对五倍子丝织物后媒染工艺的明度有明显影响,但过量的媒染剂不利于节约和环保,媒染剂最佳质量浓度为5 g/L,染色次数达到4次以上时,增强染色效果较为明显。Gallnut can dye black and gray.To discuss the color control factors of gallnut dyeing deepblack,decocting method was used to extract pigment.The effects of mass concentration of mordant or dyeing times on color features were analyzed by single factor test.Color features were obtained by color representation,which could determine the color regularity of traditional dyeing method with gullnut and the valuerange of L*,a*,b*,c*.The results indicated that the mass concentration of melanterite(mordant)and dyeingtimes had significant influence on the lightness of silk fabric after-mordanting dyeing with gallnut,but excessive mordant was not conducive to energy conservation and environmental protection.The optimal concentration of mordant was5g/L,and the dyeing effect enhanced obviously when dyeing times reached above4times.

关 键 词：中国传统服饰 服饰色彩 染色技艺 植物染色 五倍子 色谱 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]