云纹花色纱周期性规律研究  

Study on the periodical regularity of the mottle yarn

作　　者：高娜[1] 李强[1,2] 徐伯俊 刘新金[1] 王广斌 GAO Na;LI Qiang;XU Bojun;LIU Xinjin;WANG Guangbin(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Dongli Fiber ResearchInstitute(China)Co.,Ltd.,Nantong 226000,China;Xinjiang Tianshan Wool Textile Co.,Ltd.,Urumqi 830054,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司,江苏南通226000 [3]新疆天山毛纺织股份有限公司,乌鲁木齐830054

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第4期24-30,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中国博士后科学基金项目(2015M581722);江苏省博士后科研资助计划项目(1501146B);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20170169);江苏省产学研项目(BY2016022-27);纺织服装产业河南省协同创新项目(hnfx14002);广东省产学研项目(2013B090600038);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心基金项目(XJFZ/2016/4);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助(JUSRP51731B);宿迁市工业支撑项目(H201612;H201607)

摘　　要：为探究云纹纱花色效果的形成及寻求其花色效果的可控因素,文章采用长度测量法研究其颜色周期性规律,分为整纱周期和单元周期两部分研究,计算云纹纱各色段覆盖比及周期长度。研究结果表明:云纹纱一个周期内依次呈饰纱纤维从无到有的渐变段L_(G01)、饰纱纤维较多的有色段LY、饰纱纤维从有到无的渐变段L_(G10)、全为基纱纤维的本色段LB,且L_(G10)>L_(G01)>LY>LB;饰纱纤维表面长度呈现从无到有先增大后减小直至消失的规律,基纱纤维则规律相反;对于32S云纹纱,整纱周期长度为73.89 mm;彩色段总体长度远大于本色段长度,之比为9.236。单元周期长度为1.252 mm;单元周期为79.867个/10 cm,与成纱捻度接近。To explore the formation of color effect of mottle yarn and seek the controllable factors of its color effect,the periodical regularity of the mottle yarn was studied by using the method of length measurement.The research was divided into two parts:entire periodicity and unit periodicity.Mantle ratio and cycle length of mottle yarn in each segment were calculated.The results showed that mottle yarn presented four color pieces within one period.They were the gradual segment(L G01)whose decorative yarn fibres became greater in number,the colored segment(L Y)which had more decorative yarn fibres,the gradual segment(L G10)whose decorative yarn fibres became fewer in number and grey segment(L B)made by main yarn fibre in turn.And,L G10>L G01>L Y>L B.The length of decorative yarn fiber first increased and then decreased until it disappeared,and the regularity of base yarn fiber was on the contrary.For the 32S mottle yarn,the length of its entire periodicity is 73.89 mm.The overall length of colored period is greater than that of the original color segment and the ratio is 9.236.The length of unit periodicity is 1.252 mm.The unit periodicity is 79.867/10 cm,close to the yarn twist.

关 键 词：云纹纱 整纱周期 单元周期 长度 覆盖比 

分 类 号：TS106.44[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]