常见仿真丝面料的织物性能测试与分析  

Performance test and analysis of common silk-like fabrics

作　　者：赵超[1] 刘新金 王广斌[3] ZHAO Chao;LIU Xinjin;WANG Guangbin(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangsu Spcc-silk Silk Company,Suqian 223700,China;Xinjiang Tianshan Wool Textile Company,Urumchi 830054,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]江苏苏丝丝绸股份有限公司,江苏宿迁223700 [3]新疆天山毛纺织股份有限公司,乌鲁木齐830054

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第5期31-37,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省博士后科研资助计划项目(1501146B);中国博士后科学基金项目(2015M581722);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20151359);江苏省产学研项目(BY2015019-10;BY2016022-27);江苏省科技成果转化项目(BA2014080);纺织服装产业河南省协同创新项目(hnfx14002);广东省产学研项目(2013B090600038);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号);新疆维吾尔自治区重点研发项目(2016B02025-1)

摘　　要：为了研究仿真丝织物与真丝织物的性能差异,采用规格相同的三种涤纶、粘胶和铜氨仿真丝织物与真丝织物进行研究。首先通过扫描电镜观察分析了涤纶、粘胶、铜氨和蚕丝纤维的表面形态,并测试了纤维的力学性能。接着对这四种织物的顶破性能、透气性能、保暖性能和透湿性能进行了测试,并采用KES风格仪对其基本风格指标进行对比分析。结果表明:与真丝织物相比,涤纶仿真丝织物的顶破性能、硬挺度、弯曲回复性能、压缩回复性能和拉伸性能较好;粘胶仿真丝织物更加柔软和蓬松;铜氨仿真丝织物则拥有优越的悬垂性能和透湿性能。In order to explore the performance difference between the silk-like fabrics and silk fabrics,the polyester silk-like fabric,viscose silk-like fabric,copper ammonia fabric and silk fabric with the same specifications were studied.The surface morphology of the four kinds of fibers was analyzed by SEM.In addition,the mechanical properties of the four kinds of fibers were tested.Then,the bursting performance,water permeability,air permeability and heat retention property were tested.Moreover,the KES instrument was also used to analyze their fundamental style indexes.The results show that,compared with pure silk fabric,the polyester silk-like fabric has better bursting,stiffness,bending recovery,compression recovery and tensile property.The viscose silk fabric is softer and fluffier than silk fabric.The copper ammonia fabric has more excellent draping property and water permeability.

关 键 词：仿真丝织物 真丝织物 KES 服用性能 织物风格 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]