基于蜂巢和全显色组织的肌理效果提花织物设计  

Jacquard fabric design with texture effect based on honeycomb and full-coloring weaves

作　　者：彭稀 周赳[1] PENG Xi;ZHOU Jiu(Silk Institute,College of Materials and Textiles,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院丝绸学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第5期73-77,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(15BH115);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016)

摘　　要：为突破传统提花织物只能单一表现色彩或单一表现肌理的瓶颈,实现面料肌理与色彩在数码纺织技术下的完美统一,文章着重从肌理纹样和肌理组织两方面对全真丝面料进行创新设计,以"幻化·韵"主题作品为例,对产品的设计构思、工艺流程和风格及消费定位进行详细说明。创新设计了可与全显色组织完美结合的基于蜂巢组织的肌理组织,将肌理纹样和肌理组织完美融合,使所得面料兼具丰富色彩和美丽肌理,拥有视觉和触觉双重肌理感官体验,效果新颖,为数码化的面料设计创新提供新的方法和借鉴。In the traditional jacquard fabric process,rich colors and texture are difficult to display on the same piece of jacquard fabric.In order to break through this bottleneck and achieve perfect unification of fabric texture and color in digital textile technology,this paper focuses on the innovative design of the pure silk jacquard fabric from two aspects:texture pattern and texture weaves.Samples of real fabrics with the theme of“HUANGHUA·YUN”are used to illustrate the design concept,process flow,style and consumption target.The innovative texture weaves based on honeycomb weaves are designed to be perfectly combined with full-coloring weaves in the paper.By the combination of texture pattern and texture weaves,we can gain the novel fabric,which not only has rich color and rich texture,but also has a visual and tactile texture.This paper provides a new method for digital fabric design innovation.

关 键 词：动物 肌理效果 肌理组织 提花织物 丝绸面料 面料设计 

分 类 号：TS145.33[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]